Club 80-90 Forums

also dont forget to replace the spigot bearing may need to be replaced.

neil

axeman wrote:also dont forget to replace the spigot bearing may need to be replaced.
neil

Gotcha.
One of these
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/s ... nline.html
and one of these?
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/f ... l?___SID=U

syncropatrick wrote:

axeman wrote:also dont forget to replace the spigot bearing may need to be replaced.
neil

Gotcha.
One of these
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/s ... nline.html

just the first one is needed, they stay in the engine (end of the crank) and are a bugger to remove with out destroying, there may be one fitted to your agg but i dont know if its the correct one
the second one is a wbx only part i think? someone else should be able to confirm but i have not used the felt seal on my 20v install.

neil

Latter is a wbx part.
You may be able to remove the bearing hydraulically, but the technique works best on solid bushes. You will need a close fitting length of steel rod (about 6-8") and then pack the end of the crank with grease, making sure there is no air in there. Insert rod, wrap a bit of rag around it, put on safety specs and repeatedly pound with a lump hammer.
Success is not guaranteed but worth a go.
Otherwise its out with a 1/2" chisel to split the outer race and fold it in on itself.

A picture speaks a thousand words:

Drove Shazzer to the tip, unloaded, wouldnt restart. No spark. Did this back around Spring 2009 so I knew what had failed.
If you dont know when the coil was last changed, fit a fresh one and dont expect more than 6 years service; always carry a new spare!
I suspect that the amplifiers fry because its piggybacked on the coil (Golf may be different)
Shazzer Simos uses 3-wire coil unit.
The ignition trigger in the dizzy seems to last really well, we have had this car since 2002 and its all as built, bar the coil...

PS the coil/module fail without warning. No misfires, I only drove three miles, switched off and it coughed once when I tried to restart. Exactly the same both times.

silverbullet wrote:PS the coil/module fail without warning. No misfires, I only drove three miles, switched off and it coughed once when I tried to restart. Exactly the same both times.

Thanks Ian, good tip.

No problem, its an easy fix and worth knowing.

Syncro fuel tank removal... oh the joys.
Luckily I had the tank straps replaced with SS ones 5 years ago, so one less issue to deal with.
After liberal application to my face and eyes of 5 years of mud I've got the sender side loose, but the filler side is stuck on the filler pipe. I've read that the offside shock needs removing so the filler pipe can be pulled back towards the rear quarter, but the top bolt on the shock (19mm head) is really stuck. I've got a 3 foot breaker bar on it and it just isn't moving. Shocks were replaced less than 2 years ago, so I assume its just done up really tight rather than frozen in. Plus Gas and hammer to liven it up haven't helped yet.
Alternatively, is it possible to slide the tank off the filler pipe in-situ?

Its been a while since I did ours... iirc the pipe has to be pushed into the tank first to disengage the hose from the filler, then rolled over and drawn out.
A big torque rattle gun electric or air) may be your friend here. Heat might help, even a hot air gun will encourage penetrating oil to wick in.
Keep some wet rags to hand though

PS I cant imagine that the tank will come out without the pipe being removed first.

It's out, phew! Couldn't shift the shock, so went back to wiggling the tank mm by mm. Managed to pop the seal round the filler pipe and everything became looser. Manoeuvred the sender side of the tank away from obstacles enough it cleared the filler. I hope once everything is cleaned and lubed up I'll be able to do so in reverse with the diesel tank.

That feels like the last big removal job, so from now on its cleaning, prepping, replacing small parts and assembly of new kit. Plain sailing, hahaha!

Tool of the day - perseverance.

A slight diversion while I take a break from the project due to Mendipidy and 2 family birthdays. Back on it this Saturday.

I've got all JX Syncro conversion parts for this install, and therefore am not using the WBX bashplate, exhaust system or engine moustache bar. I've been asked to sell the plate and a) not sure of value; and b) not clear if I'll ever use it again. Any future engine conversions by me will be petrol only, so will they ever need these? My thoughts on a (far!) future swap will be to a VAG 1.8T.

The Syncro petrol exhaust has already sold, and the plate and bar have interest.

Your thoughts please on sale values and usefulness to me.

If the bashplate is rot-free then it is worth about 80 sovs tops. I paid syncrospares £60 for one 5 years ago (5 years!!!)

Thanks Ian. I guess its WBX specific and not useful to me then.

Prepping replacement fuel tank...
Any idea of how much in-tank fuel hose needed? Brickwerks sell it by the metre. Is 1m enough?
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/ ... -tank.html
E D I T
Is this needed just for attaching to the sender? And how much is needed? Of the two tanks I've seen one had 25cm and the other about 60cm.


Does anyone have a new, unused one of these they can sell me? BW are out of stock.
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/ ... -48mm.html