Club 80-90 Forums

Never said it was hard LOL

silverbullet wrote:Not hard to make at all. Block up, pitch two holes, side cut with a ball-nose slot drill. An hour's work for a two-off.

I couldn't make one so in my eyes it's hard to make and a thing of beauty!

Everyone likes a scallop cut on "billet" parts

i think in this case its needed as if you left the base flat then you would have issues with the chassis where the top and bottoms are spotted and now swollen with rust, this would cause issues with the fixing
and yes scalloping is nice and funny how the simple pure things can look nicer than intricate items
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I suspect that the originals were waisted down just to maintain equal section and so minimize the effects of unequal casting shrinkage.
Form and function

Yes I would be inclined to agree with ally casts like that , I do prefers the billet stuf where the pocket allows LOL
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well back to basics
hole to repair

done

and coated

so planning the mount, i need to make it so the bottle fits without strain on the hoses,and the top fits as well also want it to be as minimal as pos and possibly look OE and not a cobbled up thing so

the plate that it mounts with is 3mm and i have added a plate with studs affixed

this way you dont have to have someone with a spanner on the underside and it spreads the load,also i like the idea of being able to remove stuff like this with ease as it can then give greater access to other areas

mount for the top up bottle

this small part is to close the end up and give support ,i have scalloped it to allow easy acces to the jubbilee clip on the hose, also dont like sharp edges in tight spaces

in

we now have this, i have welded ss nuts on so ease of fitting again


the unpleasant underside

held in place

note i have cut the corner off the ally angle that supports the airfilter, no need for the sharp sticky out part and again it will be in the way

this better shows the area the hose mounts to

so tomorrows joy will be the jack carrier
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Well mk3 jack carrier is coming along nicely not posting picks till its done and i can do a sequence from start to finnish,and why i choose the method i did
diff arrived back from Aiden tout sweet, many thanks its now fitted and diff-lock slips in and out like one of Fagins best
so diff back into carrier and all up in place, really glad i got the measurement spot on

and front

block needs a tweek and the corners radiusing..
the captive keepers for the rear mount i have drilled and added a split pin

reason being that i was unable to add an extension to prevent this from sliding into the chassis and it would have prevented the leg from fitting, when vw did it the part i have made was part of the length of lower chassis member.
so going to carry on assembling the front suspension and box up all these odds and sods and make up the last few parts of the jack mount and such so happy with how its turning out
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oh and got some of this in 75mm dia

to extend out the rear vent for the cyclonic induction head
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Well collected the modified rad and rebuilt cooler

added some mounting lugs ,they are too big but meant to be so i can cut to suit, also cut the stub of and repositioned and angled it a touch as will be shown when fitted

weve extended the coolant stubs as they were a touch short

i came back the nice way,this is 10 minutes away and reminds me how nice it is out in the sticks

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can't beat the sticks chap.. took a long way round from a parts mission tonight and ended up sitting there for 15 just looking and admiring the sunset.. can't beat it..



top work boy, looking forward to more pics.

couldnt agree more
so

new snap rings fitted and all ready for dropping in

in

both sides on/in , top arms space a 1mm so on the max tolerance
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Well we had the task of mounting the jack, roof was out cos of the weight and impracticality.
front no good. spare carrier a possibility but as some have failed the bodyt mount here and also its a bliddy big lump of iron sat there, yes my mount would have been up to it but it was all wrong for many reasons,
so back bumper... well bumper is not fit to hang this sort of heavy item of so bearing in mind i also needed to create 2 tow eyes i came up with the following..

starting with a crude bit of 5" angle but bear along.. cos as we go laterally we have

clamped up , these need to be straight to the eye and also allow the bumper etc to fit

happy with this as they are now triple use items

next i need the tow eyes so down my mates for some heavy plate and to save drilling we punch a 25mm hole in

this jumps a stage but anyway get the bigger welder out 1mm wire

and it turns into this with a bit of trimming,n/s

and o/s

base plate location

n/s

stainless pin for location and then an m12 screw to hold down
primed,blacked and fitted

jack fitted


lock holds in position and is a bit of security , used a 3/8 for a decent one

i could add a small plate where screwdirver is to help stop theives hacking the lock ????

it does fit the other way so lock is hidden more ,
basically even in the dark ,lock off and bolt out then lift it out, refit is slide in and drop down on ss dowel then screw down and fit lock or whatever.
there are a few more things to finish this, more later
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Well finnished off the safe from a construction side
mounting the lock into the inner door

there are reasons for the stepping

anotyher time i may mount the lock nearer to the hinge and use a pair of 12mm SS rods to form the lock engagement its trial error as they progress really
inner door and lock in place to sort position of lock bolt receptacle

this Ive made in 2 pieces for a reason

inner of 2 in place

now with outer located

these two will be welded together then measured and placed inside the safe,remeasured and then i will puddle weld through from outside as well as a pair of welds inside, this way it also acts as a reinforcement to the top and bottom of the case around the lock latch

and here locking for the first time

bit more

shut

and in common with many safe locks , key can only be withdrawn when lock is locked so to speak..
so i have the outer front door to make and the correct shpe hole to be made for the double bit key, then i will have it poweder coated inside and out except for certain areas as i dont want rust to form inside as it will be a pig to clean off and spoil contents
this gives an idea of size and i will weigh it ,but i figure 20 lbs ish

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nice