Club 80-90 Forums

Last job for the night was drain the gearbox oil.
Will leave to drain overnight and fill up in morning.

Made a drain plug removal tool by welding M10 nut to M10 bolt.


Poor picture of drain plug removal tool and magnetic drain plug covered in gunge.


Better picture of drain plug removal tool and cleaned drain plug.


Engine oil draining. Very dirty. This must be what was put in by factory?

You've got big problems if that is engine oil!!!

Gearbox oil.

Gearbox back in with old clutch. IT WORKS.

Going to measure travel on arm then remove box and try new clutch in again.

again cross check part numbers with suppliers other than jk.
your getting good at this ,nice to know there will soon be clutch fitting service in the area, 1 hour ............... while-u-wait
mm

Measured travel on lever with old clutch fitted. approx 10mm

Took gearbox out and refitted new clutch and tried back in. About 10mm of travel on lever. Pedal better than before when no gears able to be selected.

Connected up drive shafts starter etc and fired engine up.

Tried clutch and it works to some extent. Crunchy when put in reverse and hard to get in first but will then go through box.

Turned of motor to drop van of stands and take for drive. Went back to start van and ignition light still on with key in off position? Battery now flat.

Checked starter cables and look okay. Battery back on charge then will take for spin.

Have always had a slow starter motor and noticed when fiiting power cable a lot of white podwer coming from cable. Will look into replacing or at least make up a new connection.

jeffj wrote:Gearbox back in with old clutch. IT WORKS.

Going to measure travel on arm then remove box and try new clutch in again.

I take it you haven't connected drive shafts up and took it for a spin!

I would send the parts back to JK pronto

E D I T - TOO LATE!!! - JeffJ is definetly KWIKFIT

Charged battery and started motor. Now its on all four wheels cannot get any gears?

Going to try bleeding one more time in morning. If that does not work will put in old clutch plate and housing.

Installed old clutch earlier without connecting up drive shafts or running motor? Said it works based on feel of pedal.

Will check part numbers with VW Heritage in morning. New clutch looks identical to old.

Clutch pedal did travel further with old clutch all though lever travel seemed similar.

Had to go out to meeting this afternoon or would have had the box out again.

Saying that I could remove and replace one in the dark now.

Update on yesterdays activities.


Gearbox ready to go back in the first time.


Lever not depressed. Dimension 100mm


Lever depressed. Dimension 110mm. Travel 10mm

Anyway that did not work?

SUCCSESS. Although with a bodge.

Laid awake in bed this morning thinking over problem. No matter what I do the clutch slave pushrod is always reaching end of travel?

Think - can I extend it which will compress clutch. From previous notes decided I needed 18mm approx travel. Only getting 10mmm at moment.

Decide to look at old slave pushrod.


Old pushrod how do I extend 10mm?


Fit a 9mm socket over end and it increases length.



Length of standard rod 91mm. With socket over end now 100mm. Increased by 9mm.

Right now will remove pushrod from new slave and fit this bodge.

Remove pushrod from new slave. Will just check against old to see if same.


CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS. IT IS LONGER??????? Note the depth of recess for lever ball is the same.

Slaves are different but again from previous measures the travel on old and new slaves was the same.?

Lets fit the first botch. IE old slave pushrod.
Result clutch pedal stiff no travel at all. The slave is already bottomed out.


Right will now fit the new slave pushrod with socket extension. Need to use 10mm socket as rod larger diameter.
New rod 101mm. Add socket and it becomes 112mm. Extension of 11mm.

Fit this and clutch pedal travels all way to floor. Start engine and can select gears.

Take for drive round block and all gears okay as previous. 1st always been stiff. So after all that the problem is not the clutch but the slave?

Now need to find the problem with the slave rod not being long enough?

Is the slave incorrect item. Body wise it is identical to old one taken off.

Could the clutch operating lever be replaced in wrong position on operating shaft? Operating shaft was also new? Lever can only be fitted in one position on groves?
When checking old shaft against new again both looked identical.

Cannot think of any other reasons?

May just end up making welded extension to push rod as it all works? Also need my 10mm socket back.

Slave part no. 251-721-263/A/FAG (ordered the genuine part)
Clutch operating shaft part no. 091-141-701

After getting van mobile last weekend old pressurisation problem returned?

After messing about during week have decided to purchase two new heads. Engine coming out today ready for fitting during week.

All original heads had cracks between valve seats but condition of one cylinder was doubtful with larger crack?

Engine runs and pulls well as it has always done.

Engine is out and back in garage. Removed exhaust system. Now waiting for heads to turn up tomorrow. Will do heads one at a time. Hoping that the heads come of and leave liners in place? Should then be a quick clean up and fit new head.