Club 80-90 Forums

Trouble is its not a hard and fast rule but yes I'll add a section on drying times.

Just checked - I already mention this under 'Application':

"Some claim they can flat back two days later but I honestly think thats way too soon. Paint 'skins' but it will often be soft underneath so I suggest a week to really set the paint - longer if you can. In reality it takes weeks, possibly months for paint to really cure but you can flat back fairly safely after a week if the weather is warm - particularly if its been in the sun."

Think that says it all.

I tried the "Flat back after 2 days approach", on a small test area", Which has had full sun on it

DONT DO IT, it gives a poor finish
Wait a week and the difference is massive.


Rush it and the final result will be poor

Spot on Eatcustard. What appears dry is often soft underneath. Week to 10 days better bet.

Pocolow, I've added your pics to the WIKI in the prep section as they'll give others a better idea of what has to be done.

Mark has finished the first coat in blue, he's going to wait until next weekend to put the next coat on but he's prepping the top half of the van in the meantime. We've got loads of neighbours watching the transformation, they're all fascinated by the idea of roller paining a car!

I could do with some pics, as I will create a guide to roller your van, in a PDF form. So people can download it and print it out.

I don't know if it's been mentioned here, but to my own knowledge people painting boats have been adding Rustol Owatrol and white spirit to paint and varnish for at least 30 years, especially in warm climates (Med)

Owatrol up to 50% for the first coat, 20 to 25% for subsequent coats, and 5% for final coat (this mainly for light colours where the Owatrol may discolour them). White spirit around 20%, depending on the initial thickness of the paint used, to give a really thin mix.

It seems to work with any paint or varnish that can be thinned with White Spirit. I used a good quality yacht enamel.

The paint mix is applied by a 10cm short mohair roller as fast and thinly as possible, while a second person lays it off with a felt brush. It's best to have several felt brushes of various sizes at hand. I've never found it necessary to rub down, unless real perfection is needed. Even on largish panels the paint is slowed enough to smooth it down to a near perfect finish, but beware of applying too much paint, and practice on small panels first. Because drying is so slow bugs and dust can be a problem, so an indoor tent is a good idea, though we did our Trafic outside.

This is my old Trafic, which wife and I painted in about 1994. One coat only, lower panels and bumpers Smoothrite / Hammerite.

nipping back a step... has anyone used/tried using the Rustoleum thinners? I bought a tin of this with my paints (hence asking about the white spirit/thinners thing before) and am wondering if I can/should use it?


Other than how fast it's going to dry using thinners; is there any other reason not to use it?

Doug

Don't think anyone has used Rustoleum's own thinners on here. No idea what effect on drying time but crucially I think its more about getting in as much thinners as you can without it running. Delaying the paint skinning as long as poss helps ensure it smooths out.

Hi, I used the Rustoleum thinners as I didn't want to risk adding another variable to the process, i.e white spirit, although white spirit obviously works. Whilst I didn't try white spirit and the rustoleum thinners side by side to compare both, I didn't have any problems with air bubbles - but without doing the comparison, can't be sure whether this is a problem more associated with the white spirit or not. Basically, the rustoleum thinners will be as good as white spirit or better. I found 20-25% was about right. Only managed to get a couple of coats on before the end of the good weather and I'll post some pics up soon. Just a note about adding the thinners (and I presume this is also be the case for white spirit), the thinners/spirit tends to float on top of the paint even whilst stirring, so it's definitely a good idea to add the solvent the night before.

CovKId, did I read you were planning to put up some info about a DIY bed? I'd definitely be interested in that.

Yep you did and I'll be documenting that shortly. It may not be for everyone but is aimed at getting a better and stronger fixing than the more common paper-MDF affair and finally allow my little lad, or any of his friends, to travel in the back.

Funkyoid wrote:what colour of paint did you use? It looks great and wouldn't mind knowing as its just what I am after!

Rust-oleum 18E50 ( Ribbon Blue)..Mark

thanks for that - ordering tonight/tomorrow so now I know what to get. Good job by the way!

5rise wrote:Hi, I used the Rustoleum thinners as I didn't want to risk adding another variable to the process, i.e white spirit, although white spirit obviously works. Whilst I didn't try white spirit and the rustoleum thinners side by side to compare both, I didn't have any problems with air bubbles - but without doing the comparison, can't be sure whether this is a problem more associated with the white spirit or not. Basically, the rustoleum thinners will be as good as white spirit or better. I found 20-25% was about right. Only managed to get a couple of coats on before the end of the good weather and I'll post some pics up soon. Just a note about adding the thinners (and I presume this is also be the case for white spirit), the thinners/spirit tends to float on top of the paint even whilst stirring, so it's definitely a good idea to add the solvent the night before.

Oh cool - think I'll crack open that thinners and give it whirl - will see how it compares to white spirits


This might seem a dumb question - I am no painter! - are you more likely to get the orange peel effect if you don't have enough thinner/white spirit or too much? working on my sliding door runner covers and still working out before the whole van gets it!

Doug

You'll always get a little orange peel (especially if not thinned enough) but it depends how skillfull you are in taking out surface bubbles. I've mentioned this in the WIKI but theres a point where you need to lightly run your roller over to remove these and that does take some practice. This is why I recommend that you do this job with a mate (at least initially) as he or she will spot stuff you don't and you'll cover a lot more that way.