Club 80-90 Forums

eric wrote:Naive question perhaps but, so long as the gearbox oil is 75W/90 (as per Aidan) does it matter if 4 litres are one brand and say the other half litre is Halfords? IE., would there be a problem mixing up the brands?

Eric.

As long as the spec is correct, a top up of half a litre of a different brand shouldnt make a difference...... but Halfords?

Paddy,
Yes, I know. If there was somewhere else convenient ....

My local store, however, boasts a drop-down dead gorgeous, top-heavy, 25ish old blonde.

Eric.

eric wrote: My local store, however, boasts a drop-down dead gorgeous, top-heavy, 25ish old blonde.

Eric.

Halford oil is fine .....

... ah I see, mine's local and very convenient too. But I also like visiting other Halfords, just to check what they have in, and that we're not missing out

My local Halfwits has a short, daft, mid-forties, pink-haired cashier who always gives me (& anyone else) the come-on!!
We're definately missing out!!

Seems odd what it says in the last paragraph: "When there is no lubricant in the Manual or Automatic gearbox the engine must not be started and the vehicle must only be towed with driving wheels lifted"

Why would a 'sealed for life' gearbox ever have no oil in it....?

v-lux wrote:

Seems odd what it says in the last paragraph: "When there is no lubricant in the Manual or Automatic gearbox the engine must not be started and the vehicle must only be towed with driving wheels lifted"

Why would a 'sealed for life' gearbox ever have no oil in it....?

Someone stole it to put into their gearbox (some people do, apparently, change their oil for some reason)...... Oil bung dropped out ........

KarlT wrote:What are peoples thoughts on brake-pad renewal?

As modern pads tend to ware the discs out anyway you might as well ware the pads right down to the metal to screw the last pennys out of them before changing the lot. If you don't hear the horundus squeeling noise coupled with vertually no redardation when standing on the pedal with all your might, you're not being cheep enough. Don't worry about the risks of rearending a car and needing to fit a new front end, syncros are strong enough to shrug off this "ware and tare". Furthermore you should make sure new discs are warped prior to fitting as it'll make them work a bit like ABS.

When I changed the gear oil for the first time on my then new to me 15 year old syncro, I suspect it had never been done as it was black and resembled metalic paint (I can understand the metalic look through years of abuse but how did it get black? It was at the corect level so degradeing rather than overheating is the more likely cause. Sadly this box died not long after this, though it was still working when dismantled and wasn't too noisy, clearly wouldn't have lasted though. Oil manufacturers seem to like putting shelf lifes on oil for storage prior to use so why would it magicly become infinate once in use? Sealed for life, doesn't need changeing, but the problem is its already exceeded its life. The mileage recorded on a syncro box before failure seems all over the place with no meaningful corilation. What about age? Do all these boxes die at whatever mileage they managed to clock up before reaching a certain age instead? We won't know the answer to that eather now as of all the vans out there not all have the box done when they first show the signs, and the vans span 12 years anyway so the early ones would have been heading for the scrap yards when the late ones rolled off the production line. Its not going to be that exact but at least its more scientific than one persons data set based in a single driving style in a single climate (it was engineered to be a global vehicle (with a lifespan) afterall).

In my expereances of changing gear oil (if you've never bothered you wouldn't know), gearchanges inprove slightly afterwards, especally if overdue, resulting in smoother changes less likely to make the old box complain. I'm not alone in this view as I've often had coments on improved shift quality after changing gear oil in vereous brands of car including VAG group, usally around 10 years of age (which is when degrading oil often starts to become aparent). In all cases the owners hadn't thought it needed changeing prior to that. - in what way can a smooth change be less healthy for a gearboxes long term survival than a crunchy change that shaves a bit off the synchromesh - I don't like shaving! (damage is well advanced when you can feal it so its not an adiquate indicator of when its needed)

Whilst mineral oils viscocity might not change as it degrades thats only true for monograde oils. If it is, say, 80W/90 oil (wonder why I picked that grade) its actuly 80 oil with adertives to make it behave like 90 at certain tempratures, thus as it ages it'll become 80 monograde and not give the 90 viscocity it should when its warmed up - fine for driving to tescos, bad for motorways.

...so, the bus is in a `specialist` VW garage (in Bridgend) to refurbish the linkages and put fresh gearbox oil in.

I get a phone call from the boss of the garage yesterday asking whether I still want the oil changed because to drain the gearbox, `stuff` has to be removed to get at the drain-hole and that more `stuff` has to be removed to fill it up. In other words the task of replacing gearbox-oil is not straight forward. I have a feeling that this is one of the jobs that is `Syncro-specific`and in so many words, the boss is asking is the hassle (thereby increased labour costs) worth it? I felt by him actually telling me about the problems that he didn't really want to do it, so I told him to forget it for now.

`Stuff` means various parts of the bus he mentioned that I can't remember.

Is gearbox-oil changing that problematical lads and is it worth it?

Eric.

ffs some garages
to get at the filler plug you just need the correct tool, nothing actually has to come off, but access is "pooh" because of the bashplate, but that's only 4 bolts and it has to come off to drain the oil anyway, yes it's syncro specific cos of the bashplate, and a 500ml fluid syringe and length of tubing to refill easy peasy.
If they didn't know this was the case before taking the job on I wouldn't have trusted them to check the oil level in the engine, they will be saying the bash plate has to come off to change the engine oil and filter next

Aidan,
I haven't even got a back bash-plate!

Eric.
ps ... They did tell me that mine is only the 2nd Syncro they've worked on.

Name & shame. Save another member being pi$$ed about!!

Interesting thread!

Just to throw my experiences in, I changed my g/box oil late last year, reason being peace of mind as I had recently aquired the vehicle (and yes, bit of a fiddle with the underbody protection, but not so bad!).Oil that came out was reasonably clean with the usual fir tree on the plug, but probably to be expected after 190,000 km, assuming this was the first oil change. Topped up with 4.5 litres of the Millers semi-synth.

Initially, gear change seemed improved, however, over the next 2-3 thousand km, 1st to 2nd change from cold became much more sticky, and downchange from 4th to 3rd has aquired the habit of ocasionally crunching (worn cone?)

So, is it just coincidence that the above symptoms have manifested themselves post oil change?

Sealed for life? Sure, but these are old wagons now operating past their design life. I'll figure on a 'box rebuild in the next 12-18 months (another one for Aiden)and regular changes every few years after.

eric wrote:Aidan,
I haven't even got a back bash-plate!

Eric.
ps ... They did tell me that mine is only the 2nd Syncro they've worked on.

Eric.. I know its a long way and difficult for you, but the offer still stands, for an extended trip so you can survive the drive.. maint and poss offroad day (too late now I suppose for Sunday) up here...
Might be poss for a trip to you... but would have to "look at that"

toomanytoys wrote:

eric wrote:Aidan,
I haven't even got a back bash-plate!

Eric.
ps ... They did tell me that mine is only the 2nd Syncro they've worked on.

Eric.. I know its a long way and difficult for you, but the offer still stands, for an extended trip so you can survive the drive.. maint and poss offroad day (too late now I suppose for Sunday) up here...
Might be poss for a trip to you... but would have to "look at that"

Thank you that Simon,
Coming to you would be, to be honest, quite simple really for I would book a B+B about halfway.
Perhaps then book into one near you for a couple of nights.....
I'm going to try and get to the Syncronauts meet in Powys in May, maybe there some of the guys could have a dekko at the shed and give a few pointers as to what jobs they consider to be priority.

I do know that the front diff needs an actuavator(?) cos CJ told me when he slung on the prop-shaft and recon VC (supplied by Aidan). At the time I asked CJ why he thought the ex-owner would take it out, but he simply gave me an `Atlas Shrugged` impression and said "Dunno."

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Karl,
I'm picking up the bus next Wednesday (have to wait for a lift until then) when I will be in a better, knowledge wise, position to comment and reveal. Also, one of my written `Terms of Reference` jobs (as I wont to do) to this outfit was identifying what engine is in the bus, (ex-owner told be that a `new` Wolfsburg was fitted around 2000). When I spoke to the Boss the other day, I asked whether he had identified it and he told me that they were having some difficulty in finding it yet, worryingly! Oh dear. Initially, the boss `talked the talk` and I'll find out Wednesday whether they can `walk the walk.`

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Listen up fellas, I know I frustrate and p*ss off members here with my naive and sometimes inane comments and questions, but in doing so I've always hoped the answers benefit those folk who are in a similar position to me .... that is to say that they have zero knowledge and incapacitated, so they have no other option but to go to and employ professionals.

I do, however, thank you all for your continued patience.

Eric.