Club 80-90 Forums

No missus! No. Stop it!

I remember Steve Shaw soldering a resistor in there many moons ago. I know it cured the long-forgotten problem I had. I would post a picture if I had my van here.

Smiffo wrote: ↑05 Sep 2022, 15:25

maxstu wrote: ↑05 Sep 2022, 14:10 That's where it gets most wear?
The airbox looks non DJ to me

What's your resistance range across pins 2 and 3 while you move the arm across the carbon strip, Stuart?

Mine starts low, increases sporadically, then goes low again....
I'm not convinced that's right. Just opening it up to give it a clean and blow out.

 

Yes, I've seen either resistor or capacitor soldered between pins 2 and 4 in certain pics too.
it is supposed to sort out a few gremlins with hesitation.
 

It could have been a capicitor. It was a long time ago.

For anyone interested I found this.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... hlight=afm


also stabbing around the internet, I stumbled upon replacement carbon strip boards.
No idea if they are any good. If my AFM board is found to be problematic, I will give them a punt.

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32974486153.html

This thread is making me smile. It's a voyage of discovery, slowly figuring out things that I thought had long been widely known. Now I realise I'm just old and been doing this a while, and forgotten that others' range of acquired knowledge and experiences will be different. Is LPG so obsolete already? Lol.
Anyway, yes, it's a mixer plate for the Bosch flappy AFM (as used by Gasure) and should always be used with the "catflap" backfire arrester to avoid just the thing that's happened to yours - a bent flap. This'll cause it to jam and never work properly again.
The component soldered in is a capacitor which serves to smooth out the spikes in the signal to the ECU which made them "confused", causing "Vanagon syndrome". It was an official VW fix, available from them as an in-line plug in module between AFM and multipin plug. Soldering in was the cheap way, but did the same job.
Have you learnt yet that you can slightly bend the sweeping arm to move the contact point onto a fresh arc of track, eliminating the worn out bit?

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ajsimmo wrote:This thread is making me smile. It's a voyage of discovery, slowly figuring out things that I thought had long been widely known. Now I realise I'm just old and been doing this a while, and forgotten that others' range of acquired knowledge and experiences will be different. Is LPG so obsolete already? Lol.
Anyway, yes, it's a mixer plate for the Bosch flappy AFM (as used by Gasure) and should always be used with the "catflap" backfire arrester to avoid just the thing that's happened to yours - a bent flap. This'll cause it to jam and never work properly again.
The component soldered in is a capacitor which serves to smooth out the spikes in the signal to the ECU which made them "confused", causing "Vanagon syndrome". It was an official VW fix, available from them as an in-line plug in module between AFM and multipin plug. Soldering in was the cheap way, but did the same job.
Have you learnt yet that you can slightly bend the sweeping arm to move the contact point onto a fresh arc of track, eliminating the worn out bit?

Sent from my moto g(30) using Tapatalk

Hahaha - yes this is still new to me.
Most here would have forgotten more than I know.

Colin the Fox ( forum name ) said he’d tweaked an old Volvo by shifting the track by which the arm follows on the board. That was 100k miles ago and still fine.

FYI - I saw that MV engine in the for sale section. That’s a work of art, well done.

My concern in this thread above is that I want to instal the digijet system on my DG engine. When that engine retires on me, I will go full 2.1 with the injection, but the issue for me is that all the bits are of unknown history.

Hence me fumbling my way through testing what I can in the hope that when I finally instal it, I have the best chance possible for success.
( trying to avoid installing a batch of faulty or intermittent components )


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