Club 80-90 Forums

silverbullet wrote: ↑26 Oct 2020, 08:44 Apologies for not replying to your pm but I have only been dipping in and out to post nonsense!
We only just got the barrels in the other week, pistons *should* be in soon. The bare barrels come in at £175+ vat each, pistons with rings and pin will be a similar price, notched cam and adaptor around £150+vat so realistically a 2.5 set with a cam will cost about £1600+vat once delivered with barrel seals etc.
You will still need an 82mm crank, so budget another £700 by the time its crossed the Atlantic twice if it goes to DPR unless you source one from Europe...note: use a proper shipping agent and always complete a temporary import license or you will pay extra duty on return to the UK!

In terms of a crankshaft Heritage sell a few ones there is this one, would that be something that suits? or are all crank manufacturers not equal? Or would these be for Aircooled engines? I see a difference being there being more dowels on the flywheel end.. so I assume another flywheel would be in order.

E D I T: Ah yeah duh, I'd need one without the dowels as they flywheel bolts onto the cam where the dowels are. So I assume that's why you say go to DPR, are they the only ones who do a 82mm?. Searching online hasn't been fruitful at all. As they are all doweled on the flywheel end

So many questions.

So, nothing new as yet but gearing up a bit again.

More interesting stuff, at least for me. But no actual building or stripping down grrrrrrrr! 
I have weighed the pistons today after getting a new set of digital scales. I was suprised at the results, I was expecting more of a difference. I weighed them a few times to make sure, face down on their own and pins separately then with the pins just sat in the pistons to make sure I got the same seperate readings added together.

Piston 1 Bare : 450g
Piston 2 Bare : 450g
Piston 3 Bare : 450g
Piston 4 Bare : 449g

Pin 1:140g
Pin 2:140g
Pin 3:140g
Pin 4:140g

Piston 1 + Pin : 590g
Piston 2 + Pin : 590g
Piston 3 + Pin : 590g
Piston 4 + Pin : 589g

Piston 4 has got a fair bit of damage so that makes sense it doesn't weigh the same.

In terms of how this build is going to go.. Well, the 2.5 is very tempting.. however after reading through SB's post with the first 2.5 build dumbo here forgot that the case and parts need to be machined for clearance. That is something I am not going to do, not as a first endeavour anyway as I don't have the tools or experience to know what I am doing when it comes to that.

So for now aside from other bits the engine that needs replacing and renewing, options will be either used 2.1 piston/s, although as I would still like an increase in capacity a new 2.2 set of barrels and pistons might be an option. 
Maybe the money I woulda spent on the 2.5 stuff could go towards either dual carbs or EFI or maybe a new exhaust system.


 

Looks like I will be swapping number 2 as well. There was a piece of piston ring missing so maybe this is it, but how the hell would it have the room to do that.. 

Side note not 2.1 related, the vans been sitting for 3 weeks waiting for the garage to get back to me to book it in for welding,
so I thought I'd give it the once over to keep it appeased.

Oil was down a bit so topped up, it's been a year since the last change so it's due.
Coolant OK, found what I thought was an oil leak on the underside.. well it was but it was coming from the pipe from the airbox not being tightened. (I had fiddled with the choke as it was sticking on)

Cranked it over without the king lead on, sounded off. Two distinct compressions strokes as it turns over then nothing then two..starter turns faster on the nothing so defo no compression. 

Oh balls.. I guess I'm going to investigate this tomorrow.. valve/s stuck maybe? but after only three weeks I wouldn't have thought so?
All lifters are a few months old and adjustments were done by the book. Maybe just needs some light percussive maintenance.
Might just take the rocker arms off, check the pushrods, and lifters.. maybe take them apart put clean oil in and then do adjustments again.

 Maybe I need to get my a*** in gear with the 2.1, I think it knows!



 

looks like air filter was not fitted or  big air leak between filter and engine as lots of grit has got round the top ring land on that piston.

or the piston has been dropped when someone had it out before in the past.

or both

Cobra88 wrote: ↑04 Nov 2020, 18:19 looks like air filter was not fitted or  big air leak between filter and engine as lots of grit has got round the top ring land on that piston.

or the piston has been dropped when someone had it out before in the past.

or both

I doubt that, I had the pancake off fiddling with the choke before it sat these few weeks before it's last outing. I just didn't reseat the pipe from the air box correctly so the underside was not snug. The van hasn't been anywhere since then.

Stesaw wrote: ↑04 Nov 2020, 18:34

Cobra88 wrote: ↑04 Nov 2020, 18:19 looks like air filter was not fitted or  big air leak between filter and engine as lots of grit has got round the top ring land on that piston.

or the piston has been dropped when someone had it out before in the past.

or both

I doubt that, I had the pancake off fiddling with the choke before it sat these few weeks before it's last outing. I just didn't reseat the pipe from the air box correctly so the underside was not snug. The van hasn't been anywhere since then.

Perhaps Cobra is referring to damaged piston picture?
On my rebuild one piston had similar damage. But more to the crown. I reused it after smoothing rough edges with emery. Sure the rings and sleeves are the important bit. Perhaps not. Someone mentioned to me damage on piston crown attracts hot spots? Dunno.

Possibly. but yeah the 1.9 was running fine til today. Will investigate tomorrow weather depending.

So, in regards to the engine in the van, took rocker assembly off, pushrod all ok, refilled the lifters and did put everything back. Did valve adjustments, cranked over and all is well. Odd one.

Back on topic for the 2.1.

Been getting an itch to do more on this, very fed up with lack of progress on the van interior and this engine. Got the retaining clip / snap ring off today with the help of some new snap ring pliers.
While I was at it looked at the con rods. Gave them a jiggle before removing as I want to replace the big end bits as I don't know how worn things were, they all seemed good but one made a bit more of a clunk than the others when wiggling and looked like there was a bit more play in it. 

Took them off one by one making sure to to put the halfs together the right way around. Removed the "wobbly one" top bearing half was real loose. The others seemed OK but as I am working in a shed with no power light was fading and I didn't examine them fully. Just popped them back together in order that they came off and will clean up and look when I have light. 

From what I glanced at the crank looked fine, bearing surfaces looked nice and shiney with no scuffs or scratches, but again will give an up close check soon.

I did notice on the cam timing gear on the crank that one of the teeth had some damage. I was thinking of getting the timing and distributor drive gears off as well but no heat still, also need heat for the head studs which I am still dreading...

On the subject of heat maybe getting a Rothenberger Superfire 2 Torch with some Mapp gas to heat up the bits to remove them. Thoughts?

Will update with pictures once I am more organised. 

You have to remove the crank gears to fit the new main bearing. A hot air gun should be enough to remove and refit. It's only 80°C to refit.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Ye, I get the middle one has to be in two halves (for obvious reasons!) but did wonder why VW didn't opt for another half bearing type behind the gears to save removing them, strength related?. But as you say with a bit of heat they should come off which is what I had planned, I am not gonna splash out on the "correct" puller they are bloody expensive.

I do have a hot air gun but I didn't think it would have the oomph to heat up the gears enough, so I might give that a blast tomorrow and save myself a bit of money....hopefully.

ajsimmo wrote: ↑08 Nov 2020, 17:03 You have to remove the crank gears to fit the new main bearing. A hot air gun should be enough to remove and refit. It's only 80°C to refit.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Easy enough to say, but in reality...

We shall see

I find the original ones come off and go back on easily enough with moderate heat with heat gun. But the new ones from Heritage et al are undersized and an absolute pig to get on, so don't! If you overheat the gear or heat unevenly with a flame then force it on it'll distort the teeth pitch, and your cam will go tight/loose/tight. Yes, I have done it.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk