Club 80-90 Forums

bigherb wrote:

what2do wrote: Can anybody help narrow down my search in advance, which/what wires should I be looking (hoping) to find loose?

Plug D terminal 15 the same plug as last time.

Oh come on Herb, you know that means squat diddly to me!!! Last time? What last time? Have I been here before? I know I've a head like a sieve but I'm sure I'd remember that

Seriously, what/where is plug D terminal 15 within the back of the fuse box? Will it be a black wire similar to that at the coil? If so, that'll narrow things down as there are so many pretty coloured wires under there

what2do wrote: Oh come on Herb, you know that means squat diddly to me!!! Last time? What last time? Have I been here before? I know I've a head like a sieve but I'm sure I'd remember that

You have got a short memory, what did you PM me about in April.

bigherb wrote:

what2do wrote: Oh come on Herb, you know that means squat diddly to me!!! Last time? What last time? Have I been here before? I know I've a head like a sieve but I'm sure I'd remember that

You have got a short memory, what did you PM me about in April.

That was to do with my electric mirrors - wasn't it???

what2do wrote:

bigherb wrote:

what2do wrote: Oh come on Herb, you know that means squat diddly to me!!! Last time? What last time? Have I been here before? I know I've a head like a sieve but I'm sure I'd remember that

You have got a short memory, what did you PM me about in April.

That was to do with my electric mirrors - wasn't it???

No the fact you lost a lot of electrical circuits after you pulled the fusebox about.

That was me fitting the electric mirrors. Thus was when I realised the problem of not being able to lower the fuse box. I didn't understand the info then and don't now!! Am I looking for a black wire (I assume and accept there may be several)? Ta.

Fusebox connector letters in Bentley

does it run on lpg petrol or both?

so several pages several posts and it was what I told you to do on the phone on day1, you reported it spluttered with the bypass wire you just did'nt persist or your bypass wire was bad

Oh the things we do for 'the look'

itchyfeet wrote:Fusebox connector letters in Bentley

does it run on lpg petrol or both?

so several pages several posts and it was what I told you to do on the phone on day , you reported it spluttered you just did'nt persist or your bypass wire was bad

I did try, loads of times and there just wasn't the spark. Which is what I'm finding very bizarre at this moment.

itchyfeet wrote:Oh the things we do for 'the look'

When you say 'the look', do you mean the ability to see behind the vehicle? Don't forget, you have side windows...

Feeling very relieved. Will poke around the fuse box today, although I bet you're thinking I'll run around with the temporary wire for months just like I did with the wooden batten in the engine bay

I'd run a temporary 1.5mm2 wire from G5 and increase fuse 18 to 15A
I will have a look at it later

Square headlights = the look

itchyfeet wrote:I'd run a temporary 1.5mm2 wire from G5 and increase fuse 18 to 15A
I will have a look at it later

Square headlights = the look

I'm hoping to find a crimp that has come off the spade to be honest, that's more than likely what the problem is.

How on earth do you happen to have this picture to hand???

Ps. Keep applying the sun cream.
Pps. How many days have I got to remove your posh radiators and clear out your shed?

bigherb wrote:You can see it cut in here on my rig after I reconnect the green wire the test light is dim for a second then brightens when the current limiter cuts in. The current limiter is often the part that fails in the amplifier causing no spark, if you test the coil voltage both sides and the -1 side stays low voltage then the amp is knackered. A 12v test lamp is easiest (everybody should have a 12v test lamp in there kit).

https://youtu.be/zzWp9chuZc8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just to make sure I understand this - when you turn the circuit on at 17 seconds in, your test light is dim for a moment because most of the current flows to earth through the grounded Pin 1 wire, but a split second later the current limiter cuts in causing much more of the current to then flow through the lamp, making it bright.

I had my lamp wired differently, i.e. in circuit between pin 1 and the green wire, so if I could get a helper to turn the key for me I should see my lamp light up for as long as yours was dim.

they are not spades on the back of the fusebox
special crimps that fit special connectors

If you have pulled them too tight you may have pulled one out or broken a wire internally
multistrand wires each strand breaks in a different place so may show continuity on a meter but not allow current to flow.

one more thing
check the power from coil to cut off valve and choke heater isn't partially shorted to earth
the insulation gets heat damaged and falls off then you have a corroded wire touching earth

If this happens it draws excess current down the black ignition switched 12V eventually burning out the contacts at the weakest point.
Adding a new wire to this from alt could just cause a fire.

How on earth do you happen to have this picture to hand??

It's called forward planning, you should try it