Club 80-90 Forums

ghost123uk wrote:Label your HT leads before removing them. It's amazing how many folk manage to mix them up

Does your setup have one of those ignition stabiliser modules (next to the main ignition amp) that needs bypassing when setting the timing?

I'm going to use a lifeline and ask the audience..!! Lol
What does it look like?

Should I post a pic of what I have?

E D I T:
You can see my pic below of what I have.
Just a question - as I have DF dizzy and Carb, would timing on the current setup be 7deg ATDC, or as it's a DG engine would the current timing be 5deg BTDC? ( I mean before I start changing bits out - the question is in reference to what is in situ, not what I am going to. )

Right, you haven't got the system with an "Idle Stabilisation Thingy" so nothing to do there.

(though I see 2 black bits on the body, between the coil and the amp, that might be the remains of the mounts of one, can't really tell from the pic, but one might have been fitted at some time. Not sure but I think all DF equipped vans had them, could be wrong there though. No problem here, you don't need one)

As for the timing, I am getting a bit mixed up over these pages as to what you have fitted. Firstly it's nowt to do with whatever carb is on there. But it is to do with the dizzy setup. DF type, with 2 vac pipes, would be 5 degrees ATDC with vac pipes off. DG type, with it's 1 and only vac pipe disconnected would be 5 degrees BTDC

DG dizzy is the one to go for, as long as you follow itchy's advice re the vac pipes.

Have you removed / replaced a dizzy yet? I ask because there is a bit of a knack to both lining them up correctly, and also getting them to "seat down" correctly. Once you have done it successfully once or twice, it's easy to do from then on.

Hi Ghost.

You are right, there are some plastic bits on the body work - something was there in the past.
As for changing dizzy though, I haven't done it yet.
I was pondering how I know what the idle revs are before starting.

What is the `knack` you need when changing these?

E D I T: It `lives` ..!!!

I went ahead and changed it over or I will end up just stood there looking at it dithering..!!
I told myself to man up and get on with it..!! Now it's just sat running on the drive warming up.

One query I have is how do I know what the revs are when warmed an at idle?
( I have no Tacometer. )
Is it just a case of doing it `by ear` ?

Thanks in advance.

P.S there was no dust cover under dizzy cap on either Distributor, nor an oil seal on old dizzy / engine - I will get bits on order from Brickwerks ASAP.

I might get shot down in flames here, but I reckon I know pretty much what 900 rpm sounds like, and I am guessing that most folk who are familiar enough with their engines to be doing stuff like this do too. I bet your ear won't be far enough out to make a big difference.

Anyone agree? or should we really be using a tacho?

ghost123uk wrote:I might get shot down in flames here, but I reckon I know pretty much what 900 rpm sounds like, and I am guessing that most folk who are familiar enough with their engines to be doing stuff like this do too. I bet your ear won't be far enough out to make a big difference.

Anyone agree? or should we really be using a tacho?

Ok.

At the risk of sounding like a completely impatient bloke - I went ahead and started with the timing before waiting for your reply.
Oddly enough when I took the vac pipe off the dizzy when starting from cold, the revs died down ( I had to manually rev it a bit to keep it from stalling. )

Now it's warm though, removing the vac pipe doesn't make the revs drop...
Is there something wrong there?

ref the rev values at idle, I kind of went with what sounded right, although I admit I'm no expert.

Timing is all set for 5deg BTDC at the idle that sounded right and no vac pipe connected, which seems to have it working OK.
( Aside from vac pipe issue I mentioned above. )

Umm, I would do the following. Remove the vac pipe from the carb end. Block the stub with a short bit of pipe with a screw or summat in the end. Fire up the motor. Get it ticking over (maybe with the help of an assistant). Now suck on the vac pipe that is going to the carb. This should alter the timing and change the engine speed. If it doesn't, confirm that when you suck on that pipe you very quickly get to a point where you can't suck any more and if you stick your tongue on the pipe you will feel the vacuum and it should stay like that, ie stuck to your tongue. If you can keep on sucking, or the pipe falls off your tongue in the above test, it means the advance retard diaphragm is leaking.

If you try that suck test with the dizzy cap and dust cover removed, you should be able to see the base plate inside the dizzy moving as you suck and release.

ghost123uk wrote:Umm, I would do the following. Remove the vac pipe from the carb end. Block the stub with a short bit of pipe with a screw or summat in the end. Fire up the motor. Get it ticking over (maybe with the help of an assistant). Now suck on the vac pipe that is going to the carb. This should alter the timing and change the engine speed. If it doesn't, confirm that when you suck on that pipe you very quickly get to a point where you can't suck any more and if you stick your tongue on the pipe you will feel the vacuum and it should stay like that, ie stuck to your tongue. If you can keep on sucking, or the pipe falls off your tongue in the above test, it means the advance retard diaphragm is leaking.

If you try that suck test with the dizzy cap and dust cover removed, you should be able to see the base plate inside the dizzy moving as you suck and release.

Cheers Ghost.

That was weird - I just went to retry, and now it all works correctly.
Maybe I was just being a numpty before and remembering incorrectly?

Either way it all seems to be working right. Revs even drop to almost stalling when I remove the vac pipe.
( The other one on the Solex I have bunged up with a small screw. )

Now I have it running like this, I will have a trial period of a week perhaps before going for the carb and manifold change over.
I will need some input from the gurus here though as there seem to be loads of pipe locations on the Pierburg..!!

Thanks for all your help so far everyone.
You will see me back here next week I suspect for more..!!

do the timing hot not cold, if cold and choke on revs won't be right, yes engine revs will fall when vac pipe removed, you may need to adjust throttle stop for the test.

if you run it with no o ringon the dizzy it will leak oil.

itchyfeet wrote:do the timing hot not cold, if cold and choke on revs won't be right, yes engine revs will fall when vac pipe removed, you may need to adjust throttle stop for the test.

if you run it with no o ringon the dizzy it will leak oil.

Cheers Itchy.
Yeh - made sure I did it once warmed up.

Thanks for your input on this - hopefully swap carb and all that gubbins soon...

Got an `o` ring in my boot on Brickwerks now. Just waiting for all my 5sp project parts to be sourced so I get it all in one delivery.

Well....

Went for a drive yesterday, and the difference is quite noticeable already with new Distributor...
There is no real difference at the top end power on the motorway or climbing inclines, but lower end smoothness is a vast improvement.

The best way to describe it is drivability is improved.

This has spurred me on to change the carb and manifold now as soon as I can allocate the time.

Does anyone know where all the pipes etc go on the Pierburg, and will I need to perform any modifications to swap out the Solex, or is it a straight swap out?

The pierburg comes with the throttle cable mount attached to the inlet manifold, so that aspect is covered, but I need some advice on which pipes go to which ports etc.

Any pointers or suggestions appreciated.

E D I T - P.s. anyone know what a working DF distributor goes for with vac unit ( two pipe variant )?
Part number 025 905 205 G.
I need to recoup some of the funds spent out already

Does the solex have a carb manufold heater circuit?
Pierburg needs a connection to its heater from there it's the lowest connection with a wire on carb.

Top connection on Pierburg needs to be ignition 12v and on mine choke heater also (wire on choke assembly)

Fuel in and out fairly obvious in from pump out is the pipe on the dizzy side of bulkhead

Vac pipe from dizzy to the rear on same side, otter one to air cleaner flap or block up

Two other vac pipes should already be connected on your carb to pull down and second choke vac units unless somebody messed around with it

Did I miss anything.?

Manufold to head gaskets on DG manufold are different so need them too be super careful not to loose any scresw nuts or washers down holes

I wonder how important that manifold heater is. It only comes on when the engine is cold, going off as soon as the gauge starts to move. It might be that, like the warm air intake ducting, it is there for when a T25 lives in Scandinavia etc. Just thinking out aloud here

Oh, +1 on the be careful not to drop anything down the air intakes when dealing with the manifold

itchyfeet wrote:Does the solex have a carb manufold heater circuit?
Pierburg needs a connection to its heater from there it's the lowest connection with a wire on carb.

Top connection on Pierburg needs to be ignition 12v and on mine choke heater also (wire on choke assembly)

Fuel in and out fairly obvious in from pump out is the pipe on the dizzy side of bulkhead

Vac pipe from dizzy to the rear on same side, otter one to air cleaner flap or block up

Two other vac pipes should already be connected on your carb to pull down and second choke vac units unless somebody messed around with it

Did I miss anything.?

Manufold to head gaskets on DG manufold are different so need them too be super careful not to loose any scresw nuts or washers down holes

Hi Itchy.

Ok, Vac pipe points make sense.
There is a manifold heater, but mine seems to come from the van wiring via a connection, not the Solex.

Also, the Solex doesn't have a point for coolant to flow through like the Pierburg does.



The pic shows the purple wire from Manifold going straight to van wiring.
Also, the water hose from thermostat housing on top left of pic goes straight to the manifold RHS coolant port, whereas the Pierburg seems to have a coolant hose from choke bit into that port on the manifold.

See Pierburg below assembled to the Manifold as I received it.
This shows coolant hose as I describe. I assume then I have to get the hose that goes from thermostat housing to the Pierburg's appropriate coolant port?



I'm not making any sense am I..!!??

ah yes coolant forgot that
answer later if nobody beats me to it

The hose from the carburettor choke housing goes to either the distribution point (early system)
Or it goes to the header tank