Club 80-90 Forums

Ian and Lins wrote:What colour smoke? Black smoke =rich mixture. White(ish) smoke=oil or a new Pope.

White smoke can also be just condensation on start up.
I do worry about smoke
But I don't worry about the Pope, because he couldn't give a fig about me

Van was ticking over nicely when left and sounded very smooth.well as smooth as mine Plugs were very oily . The rotor looked to be 90' out when at tdc but with ht leads fitted in correct order set at no1 in line with rotor , it fired up first time and ran nicely.
Like I said mate , I'd be tempted to run it a while then check the timing again, don't forget to take that tape off the pulley and mark the pulley where the notch is with a dab if white paint or tipex.
Glad it's running again anyhow

Ok so looks like ignition was fine all along but leads got swapped and now you are back with them right

Unless I read that wrong its idling ok but not ok when driven

so you say it was idling ok and smoth but was this petrol or gas

Black plugs, smoke and poor performace until revs get up sounds like overfueling again was this petrol or gas

Are you 100% sure you are not running on both

Worth checking the second barrel vacum unit is working ok, need to pull the pipe off the carb end open the throttle then suck you should be able to see the second barrel flap open
Easier said then done you can sometimes borrow the thin plastic vac pipe from the dizzy to extend the vac pipe to the second barrel vac unit

Start writing down what's happening and what you did

All this talk of special dizzies etc is an unnecessary distraction. It is simply that whoever installed the dizzy drive in the engine fitted it wrong way round. It is easy to make this mistake, and easy to rectify. It`s in Haynes.
Once done, your dizzy will look like everybody else's with leads on the right way on the cap, and the rotor arm facing the no.1 notch on dizzy body when engine is turned to the timing point on the pulley.
Although it will run just as well in any orientation as long as it's correctly dynamically timed, I would have to put it right as it would do my head in any other way. Anything other than right is just wrong!
As for the actual fault, gonna need some more info and testing, eg what happens on petrol, what happens on gas, anything unusual happen on changeover?

1_eyed_jim wrote: I went round to the engine and felt the exhaust down pipes and only 2 on each side were hot! The other 2 were stone cold!

So are you running on all 4 cylinders now ? (check it as per your post re what exhaust pipes are hot and what are not)

I think I "MAYO"f found the problem



We've had a lot of rain recently and the van has been constantly driven in down pours and deep puddles.

Apart from not driving the van in the rain is there any way of reducing the water intake through the airbox?

Mmm that much mayo in the carb may be a lower cylinder liner seal fail

I have seen a head gasket cause that .

itchyfeet wrote:Mmm that much mayo in the carb may be a lower cylinder liner seal fail

Oh dear that sounds terminal. Is it not possible this was dragged through the engine from the air box as there was a lot of water and gigantic puddles. Clutching at straws here The air filter is not particularly wet but there is a small amount of air and water in the box.

I'm assuming the lower cylinder liner seal is a massive job??

Give it all a good clean out ... the tower with diesel and a few rags making sure it's dry before refitting it and the carb a good clear out with carb cleaner, wipe away anything solid before you wash it down the holes. Ensure the hose to the air filter and the filter and it's box are clean and dry too. It's a good opportunity to clean the top of the crankcase and reseal the tower/case when you refit it ...obviously making sure nothing drops into the crankcase.

See how it runs and (more importantly) how long it takes to gunge up again. If you've never cleaned this out before you have no point of reference.

Ian

Ian Hulley wrote:Give it all a good clean out ... the tower with diesel and a few rags making sure it's dry before refitting it and the carb a good clear out with carb cleaner, wipe away anything solid before you wash it down the holes. Ensure the hose to the air filter and the filter and it's box are clean and dry too. It's a good opportunity to clean the top of the crankcase and reseal the tower/case when you refit it ...obviously making sure nothing drops into the crankcase.

See how it runs and (more importantly) how long it takes to gunge up again. If you've never cleaned this out before you have no point of reference.

Ian

Ok will do. Thanks for the advice. Think I'll give it an oil change too. Only been 3 months but no harm. Are you suggesting I leave the carb on the engine and blast through with carb cleaner? Would this be whilst it was running too? Also Gasure have used a "wet gasket seal" to seal the gas conversion bit that fits on top of the carb. This has been broken now and is all in bits and has been cleaned off. What is this product? Anyone know? Also wouldn't a real seal like the rubber one for the air box to carb be better?

^^^^^^good advice possibly a build up over time this can happen if you don't use it much
lots of short journeys, its what id do

If however you use it regularly on long runs then prepare yourself

No head gaskets as such on the wbx just lots of seals

Not terminal at all IF it is a seal fail the seal kit is just over £100

Don't worry to much about the lpg ring to carb seal for now it will be ok dry if you clean it up
Concentrate on the mayo

1_eyed_jim wrote: Are you suggesting I leave the carb on the engine and blast through with carb cleaner?

Wipe out what you can with a lint-free cloth and stop any 'solids' going down the barrels, wash everything else down. Start engine with everything cleaned out and replaced ... don't forget the beret (again cleaned out with carb cleaner or the cheaper option red diesel) What' s the hose between the tower and the beret like ? Normally they go pappy and suck shut causing breathing problems, Brickwerks sell the standard replacement but other folks use improvised hoses with a re-enforcing to prevent kinking.

I wouldn't change the oil unless you are running something strange ?

If you want to meet up and have a chat and a coffee I am around home all next weekend in Wirksworth DE4 4FX 07792 116458 (subject to weekend get-ups and the F1 GP )

Ian

Hiya mate, mine had that mayo "pooh" in it earlier this year, cleaned it all out and has not reappeared. Keep at it but don't delve too deep all at once , do a bit , make sure it's working then go onto the next bit. Be methodical about it . Ps I never did get any biscuits
Daz.
Just for you to compare vans and engine performance mine pulled up the hill out of grindleford uptown foxhouse in third, into 4th a couple of times but had to keep dropping into 3rd . Tis a long drag