Club 80-90 Forums

Don't know about petrol engines - last contact was in '73 with a new bay! Someone should have more of an idea.

No idea about your clutch - but I also had a DT175. Mine was a very non standard paintbrush finished silver.

And a hoot!

Have taken measurements of travel of lever arm and release bearing and of old and new clutch plate/housing.

Sketch attached.Any body have any comments.

Not sure myself how the clutch works?

Compress clutch pedal, this moves the release bearing which will then compress the fingers on clutch housing onto clutch plate which then takes the load of the housing disconnecting the engine and gearbox?

Evidence that the fingers have compressed to the clutch plate as transfer of lube that was put on fingers/release bearing.

jeffj wrote:Not sure myself how the clutch works?

Compress clutch pedal, this moves the release bearing which will then compress the fingers on clutch housing onto clutch plate which then takes the load of the housing disconnecting the engine and gearbox?

Almost. As you press the pedal, the release bearing moves forward, compressing the diaphragm spring - but nothing should touch the friction plate. The spring's pivoted part way down, so as the fingers of the spring push in, the pressure plate can release it's grip, releasing the friction plate to spin relative to the flywheel's driven plate and the pressure plate.

If you can get your paws on an older-style coil-spring clutch plate, it'll all be much clearer than the diaphragm style ones.

This explains it fairly clearly, with diagrams.
http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/142 ... 73_137.htm

Thanks. Thats clear now.

The trace of grease will have got onto clutch plate from release bearing when I fitted it to splined shaft to get mesurements.

Purchased new lever arm

can you confirm you purchased petrol parts?

i know diesels are different but dont have the details.

took this of a petrol box i have lying around


i will check to see if the lever is 'up' or 'down' as didint pay attention when i took photo , but defo seems a tad higher than your lever

Photos of lever arm in two positions


At extent of slave travel. Old slave in position.


At closed position.

Further photos.

Printed off your photo to compare with mine and angle is similar when closed.


Lever closed with slave pushed away from mounting bracket.


Lever compressed with slave at full extension.

Your steadying arm looks to be in a different position compared to Bill739's picture. Could that be where the error is coming from? Can't remember what mine looks like.

Diagonal brace is disconnected and loose. Arm in Billy739 picture in similar position to mine in closed position.

I had a clutch pressure plate that would not disengage on a MK2 Escort years ago - replaced pressure plate and everything tickety boo - It was a Quinton Hazell Part!
I was getting same as you - hard pedal etc

Checked with Just Kampers and no problems reported with clutch assembly purchased.

Decision made. Going to fit old housing cover, clutch plate and release bearing and see if it works?

jeffj wrote:Checked with Just Kampers and no problems reported with clutch assembly purchased.

They say that about their dodgy Dalek coolant tank caps too

Cleaned gearbox down and fitted new selecter arm bush and oil seal. Also have new bellows rubbers to install.




Gearbox


Painted rear mounting bracket selecter arm and hose retainer.


Release bearing & release arm.

Off work tomorrow so plans are as follows. Refit old clutch and housing with the new release bearing. Install gearbox & slave. Test clutch pedal.
Options
If this works will remove gearbox and refit new clutch and housing to check again. If this does not work again will be having a discussion with Ian at JK and return clutch assembly. Will then refit old clutch, housing, release bearing and at least be mobile again.
If the old clutch does not work do not know my next actions?

did you ever cross check the part numbers with another supplier
mm