Club 80-90 Forums

Well progress was slow today , but at least there was some . Finaly manged to remove all of the inner sill from the front to reveal the corrosion to the b-post.



I know Ive made a pigs ear of the floor ( Ill get to that later).

Most of the rear part of the sill is now removed, but Im stuck on this bit




What your looking at is the inner sill corroded to the top of the swing arm mount/Jacking point. My question is how the hell do I separate the two parts as its still quite solid despite its appearance. Also the flange of the inner sill goes into the rear crossmember and there is no access underneath . Is the only way to get to the spot welds by drilling from above inside the van.

Now to the floor, as I said Ive made a pigs ear getting the sill and floor apart. Trust me the spot welds were impossible to pinpoint hence the holes and torn metal.







In my un-experienced opinion the floor edges aren't good enough to weld to as they are corroded and in places paper thin . I maybe wrong but I think Ill struggle to weld a 2mm thick sill to them with out blowing holes in the floor. The best solution is to get new metal in there but I'm stumped at how . I've had one idea but Ill keep that to myself at the moment in-case I embarrass myself with it.

Any Ideas will be gratefully recieved. Mike the Fidget specials arrived today thanks again.

James

Slow progress again today , major hang over but the sun was shining so had to get something done. Started un-picking the front crossmember its 90% off but a neighbour put her little-un done for a sleep so I called it a day



also took this bit out to get better access to the b-post to repair it



got it out in 1 piece so good for a template for a new one



Slowly getting there , the cross member is a job I wish I hadnt started but it needed doing , not helped by not sharpining me spot weld drill at work yesterday


James

Top work there James, exactly how I did mine, makes life easier with lots of room to get at stuff properly,
what type nof spot cutters are you using
mike

Hi Mike

Im just using a 8mm HSS spot weld drill, to be honest its past its best. Its ok with body panels but the 2mm sill is killing it. I regrind it at work on the drill grinder but its a bit over the top as it does to good a job . The corners are to sharp and it just doesnt last.

Going to get a new one before next weekend.

It seems odd but as the holes are getting bigger the job is getting easier

James

I envy some of your precision gear, I have to buy new, eyesight also not good enough

the spring loaded roko is neat as it is more like a mini hole saw and leaves the spot behind so is less prone to going through both panals
mike

I used to be able to grind by hand but where spoilt now with the drill grinder , Im way out of practice . 9 times out of 10 we sneak round to the tool supplier round the corner and just buy a new carbide drill that just happens to be a size for homework and work use and put it on the account.

One snag I have come across is that the schofield sill isnt exactly a good fit with the vw nos cross member. See some hammering coming on

James

Well with one last big swear word the cross member parted company with the chassis,( only one hidden spot weld to catch me out ). Leaving me with this big hole.



Quickly filled it with this







Fit is almost perfect , as you would expect from nos part.

Following metalmickeys words of wisdom , sill trimmed and in place.



All just clamped in place at the moment as Im getting for some gas for the mig. Its starting to look like its getting somewhere and the worst is behind me

James

nice work - what are you going to do about the vin number on the old cross member ?

To be honest thats something I was going to worry about at a later stage. I was going to keep the old cross member anyway just incase of future trouble.

Whats the legalitys of not having one ?.

Its highly un-likely that I will be selling the van any time soon . It will be obvious that the whole crossmember has been replaced to anybody who knows there stuff. So its not like I am trying to pass off a ringer if I did have to sell.

James

unless you were to export it it will probably never be looked at again, I was just wondering - keeping the old one makes sense

Excellent work, if you havent yet welded the new x member in, then maybe it would be easier to fabricate the inner part of the b post whilst access is still open, you could always cut the vin number out and weld the plate to the new x member?
mike

fidget wrote:To be honest thats something I was going to worry about at a later stage. I was going to keep the old cross member anyway just incase of future trouble.

Whats the legalitys of not having one ?.

Its highly un-likely that I will be selling the van any time soon . It will be obvious that the whole crossmember has been replaced to anybody who knows there stuff. So its not like I am trying to pass off a ringer if I did have to sell.

James

Hi, the vehicle needs a chassis number somewhere for the MOT. So the best thing to do is stamp your VIN in the new crossmember..

Hi Mike

that was my plan to get the b-post reparied while I can get all round acces to it. Just need to print some pictures off youre re-build thread of how it goes back together.

I googled the chassis number mot requirements and come across motuk.co.uk which had this about the chassis numbers

"5. Check that the vehicle is permanently displaying a legible Vehicle Identification Number
(this can either be. on a VIN plate secured to the vehicle. or. stamped or etched on the vehiclebody or chassis)."

I still have the vin plate on the front door post so the way the above reads its ok

Im going to pop up my local mot station and ask the question there too

James

Good idea, though wouldnt hurt to add the numbered bit youve cut off and weld it on as a p[late and date it with some neat migging
if Ive any more picks of the j/p that I didnt post up I'll email them to you later tonight
mike

Ive had a dig around in the cupboard of doom at work tonight

Have managed to find some punches the right size and font as the origional chassis number so thats another option I now have.

Just not what sure what to do

Jamesw