Club 80-90 Forums

After much fannying about l decided to put aside the stainless pipe. It is impossible to get the bends correct to matched the other spigot. So reverted to a spare metal one

That why I said that you have to tweak the stainless pipe to make it line up with the elbow. They are all the same i.e. close but not right. No excuse for it really.

I'm sure that I have detailed it in more than one engine build topic.

I tried. But bend one way and it catches crank pulley.
T'other way, it sits against oil pump cover.
There is simply not enough room. The pipe is to thick in girth to adjust by bending. The only way is to crush pipe, where it crosses between pump cover and crank pulley, by about 5mm and re-angle the end to match elbow pipe.
What about engine mounts carrier? Will that fit okay?

Re: engine mount carrier, think that I said that it needs a couple of bevels filing on it to ensure that it sits on the three bolt bosses properly.
I'll take a pic...

Ignore the machined off web, that's an Oetti wbx6 thing.

Thanks.

Finally, after one year and two months, my 2.1 is ready to fit.. and what a journey this has been!! I really thought this would be done and dusted by last year, and on a reasonable budget too. But a few hiccups along the way delayed the end product. Particularly, the lack of parts and
mine and Maxine's poor health.

So tomorrow it goes in. Lots of snagging today. Especially the new exhaust. Lots of drilling and grinding to make sure the joints fit properly without stressing one area or another.

Battery on charge for the big event. Tickets available on line.

Good luck with it Stu.

Thanks Rob.

fingers crossed.

Have you got a big sign ont he steerin wheel saying "OIL"

Rob

TwinTurbo wrote: ↑Yesterday, 05:07 fingers crossed.

Have you got a big sign ont he steerin wheel saying "OIL"

Rob

The engine has 3 litres of oil added already. I do it while on the engine stand and give engine a few revolutions by spanner.
Once engine is fitted, plugs out, then l will spin it over on the starter for a few seconds with dissy lead earthed to engine block.
Probably my ninth or tenth wbx install (fourth rebuild) yet l didn't sleep at all well last night.

Good luck stu

Cobra88 wrote: ↑Yesterday, 06:04 Good luck stu

Thanks, Rick.

Would a fellow forum user confirm the following for me please?

I usually fire up a rebuilt engine for five to ten seconds (on fast idle only) without coolant or any coolant pipes attached. This way, if there is an internal fault, the engine is easy and quick to remove and sort out issue. That my method. Nothing written in stone.

This time l'm dealing with a lot of new internal components. New conrods, new camshaft and hydraulic tappets et al. And from my readings, an engine with new a camshaft and flat tappets should be initially started and bedded in at 2000 revs for up to ten minutes, or varying revs for a period of 10 to 15mins. Then shut down. Let it cool and change oil and filter.

So my usual method of no coolant ten second start is redundant for today's install.

Is this bedding in procedure correct for a WBX flat four?

Regards
Stuart

Furthermore, this bedding in procedure l described in post about must surely be detrimental to piston ring bedding in, where loading the engine in different road conditions, hill etc, gives prime results?
No wonder l didn't get much shut-eye last night. Over thinking becomes a habit.

People will tell you different things, but for me racing a freshly built engine does not seem like a good idea and I am not sure what the theory is. 

I would do it your way.