Club 80-90 Forums

CovKid wrote:Scaffold pole roughly 2 foot too short. What the heck next....

...or you're not heavy enough. Flip it 180 degrees and put a jack under the end of it?

Tried that My assistant started to back away at that point as the tension on it gives you the impression it could fly in the air. Don't blame him

I would keep hitting the drum with a hammer or sledge hammer, I tried to undo the rear hub nut on a late van with a ten foot long scaffold bar and didn't budge, the early style hub nut is much easier.

Have gone back to hammering. I think its moved a thou on hub. Its not much, but it HAS moved.

When I did my wheel bearings the nuts came off with a good impact gun. I refitted, taking great care not to tighten them too much, so I thought. Next time I couldn't undo them.

I now have a 6' 6"steel tube that does the job. I was compressing the rear springs before it moved, I thought my 3/4 ratchet was going to break

You can have my sympathy now, as I don't think there's anything else I can offer and you are too far away to borrow stuff.

If you do have an assistant, thry hammering the head of the not while it's under tension, try to shock it loose.

[Warning].... If I was in your predicament I would try freeing the drum again, I know what I describe below is highly irregular and possibly breaks every health and safety rule there is so only take any notice of my suggestion at your own risk if you feel so inclined [/warning]

Many years ago I was servicing rear brakes on a vehicle (not a T25) and started the engine with the car up on jacks and the drum I was working on only secured by the grub screw that holds the drum in place (no wheel nuts or wheel on) and with the engine only idling put it in gear to let the hub and drum rotate to check the alignment because I had had a brake binding issue. When I touched the brakes the grub screw sheared off?!! A silly mistake and one I would not normally repeat but to free off the stuck drum perhaps you could try jacking up both rear wheels and supporting it on axle stands etc. then start your engine (in gear because you have no clutch) and apply the brakes or handbrake with the wheel spinning slowly. Without any bolts securing the brake drum the forces may release the drum. Just a thought and it may be totally wrong or ineffectual but just another possible solution

E D I T..you would have to remove the rear studs to do this...

Don't some vehicles have a twin thread for pushing the drum off like a 8mm/10mm thread in the drum and a 6mm thread for the retainer? It would be far easier if ours had this facility. I can't remember what vehicle I had that had this - it was so much easier.

I have formally abandoned the job now, along with any hope of getting to Upton this year. Its not coming off and thats that. I really have tried.

The backplate is destroyed but I had a new one to replace it. Sadly thats not going to happen either. I have hammered that drum to within an inch of its life.

I did try removing axle nut but with an ineffective brake on that corner, the wheel just spins. The only way forward that I can see is to wreck the rest of the backplate and get a much bigger puller - something more suited to large vans or small lorries. Mine is fairly big - just not big enough for that size drum.

The T25 was one brake drum that doesn't have the facility to lift drum off with two bolts

CovKid wrote: I did try removing axle nut but with an ineffective brake on that corner, the wheel just spins.

Put the wheel back on and drop it off the axle stand, then you can put it in gear and/or chock one or more wheels.

if the backplate is wrecked anyway can't you drill through it and use a drift of some sort to knock the drum off from the back?

I've used a chock under the wheel before to stop it turning as you undo the axle nut, also maybe one of those old style 'hammer spanner' things designed to be hit with a sledge might shock it loose.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=hamme ... 1848024394" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Getting to it from rear might be possible but the hub covers bit I need to hammer at. Will try though Just not today

Will try your method too Chris. Has to be worth a try.

Worth asking around if anyone has a hydraulic puller - I've got a 10 ton one that I had to buy to get a steering arm off the rudder stock on my boat. That would shift it, they are far better than screw types.

D'ya think if I turn my back on it with my fingers in my ears, it might jump off on its own Na, perhaps not

Considering making a two-legged puller from the two spring compressors I have. CJH kindly offered to lend a hand but I'm mindful that this doesn't use up my entire holiday. I have visions of a line of keen-spirited 80-90 members in a long line with various contraptions they think will do the job, as each throw in the towel and vanish.

I'm fairly sure a puller that fits would add the tension needed to smack it free. Honestly, its almost like its welded at the centre. Ridiculous.

Hey - neat idea

I would NEVER have thought of that!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5gqouXo_q8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And the hammer is still being used ! I used a sledge hammer when mine was like yours.