Club 80-90 Forums

Oh for God's sakes! It would let me load anymore photos, says they are too big. Grr

Well I tried to post a picture if the inlet runner up to show how far the valve seat has travelled up it, it's properly mashed the aluminium up. The machine shop isn't open today so I can't ask, but would you guys happen to know if it needs a new head or is it repairable? I'm assuming you can't just put another seat in as the aluminium behind it is damaged. But can places repair them? What's my best option?

Also worryingly there is still quite alot of glittery fleck in my new oil :S reckon it's that's washer at the back of the engine?

Yes it can be repaired, the missing aluminium can be built back by welding rod.
Then heat treated, then machined to take the insert, then the insert fitted.
New valve and you're done.
I know this because we do it where I work.

But the cost would be more than a new head.

New head is around £275 inc valves and springs.
I have seen them and they are fairly good quality really.

No brainer for me.

kevtherev wrote:Yes it can be repaired, the missing aluminium can be built back by welding rod.
Then heat treated, then machined to take the insert, then the insert fitted.
New valve and you're done.
I know this because we do it where I work.

But the cost would be more than a new head.

New head is around £275 inc valves and springs.
I have seen them and they are fairly good quality really.

No brainer for me.

Thanks for that reply that's a pretty good price for a new head, decent quality one. Where do you recommend is best? What brand? There seems to be a fee places floating around that sell them. One with a good rep would be best
Thank you

They're all made at the same place, just get the cheapest deal
AMC heads

Hello,

Cylinder heads come in pairs..

Plenty of 2 litre heads about..

Part no:

071 101 061

Most are Chinese from 600€ a pair.

If you are stuck then a 2nd hand head..overhauled and both head's valves reground.. will cost mostly effort.

However.... are we not 'getting off thread'.. low pressure at warm idle usually means worn main bearings..

The type 4 block.(yours) should develop 2.5 bar oil pressure at tickover

This engine:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nqUWst2XRo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

had to have a refurbished crank, as during the initial test the pressure was 0.8 bar..

However it ran mechanically well before...

So.. we are not at the end of the world.. even if we are at the end of your budget..and Spring is here..

Suggestion: get a second hand head.. while you are waiting.. you pull out the cam followers (magnet on stick ) especially the one that that mashed the head. Make sure they work..and most importantly that the circlip is in place.. also check the pushrods.. (you have kept them in order) to see if one is bent..

Reason..I've seen this before..pushrod badly fitted onto top of cam follower.. valve setting done..screw way out.. no one notices..pushrod breaks circlip..cam follower opens.. or even the pushrod drops back in place ..lost adjustment..no compression..

Then flush the oil cooler .. fit a new oil pressure switch..and stitch the engine back together.. use diesel hd mineral oil..and cross your fingers..

if the heat exchangers are really shot.. then carefully strip the outer casinge off..and hey presto J tubes..

By the way I hate single webers on these..

and somewhere in a box is an old pair of solexes..

Aircooled engine: clean and airtight is happy.

Take it out and have fun for the summer..

you'll need a propex for the Winter..

Aircooled bliss..

Cordialement..



PS: free tune up and BBq for all Aircooled visitors..

As no one has said it yet, but the bottom end needs to be stripped too...

You've already said that you've seen a large quantity of metal particles in it... seat regression is a very unlikely cause for it... my money is on someone putting new lifters on an old cam, and not doing a bedding in run...

What do you reckon for bedding in the cam lobes? 2000 rpm for 20 mins?

sarran1955 wrote:Hello,

Cylinder heads come in pairs..

Plenty of 2 litre heads about..

Part no:

071 101 061

Most are Chinese from 600€ a pair.

If you are stuck then a 2nd hand head..overhauled and both head's valves reground.. will cost mostly effort.

However.... are we not 'getting off thread'.. low pressure at warm idle usually means worn main bearings..

The type 4 block.(yours) should develop 2.5 bar oil pressure at tickover

This engine:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nqUWst2XRo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

had to have a refurbished crank, as during the initial test the pressure was 0.8 bar..

However it ran mechanically well before...

So.. we are not at the end of the world.. even if we are at the end of your budget..and Spring is here..

Suggestion: get a second hand head.. while you are waiting.. you pull out the cam followers (magnet on stick ) especially the one that that mashed the head. Make sure they work..and most importantly that the circlip is in place.. also check the pushrods.. (you have kept them in order) to see if one is bent..

Reason..I've seen this before..pushrod badly fitted onto top of cam follower.. valve setting done..screw way out.. no one notices..pushrod breaks circlip..cam follower opens.. or even the pushrod drops back in place ..lost adjustment..no compression..

Then flush the oil cooler .. fit a new oil pressure switch..and stitch the engine back together.. use diesel hd mineral oil..and cross your fingers..

if the heat exchangers are really shot.. then carefully strip the outer casinge off..and hey presto J tubes..

By the way I hate single webers on these..

and somewhere in a box is an old pair of solexes..

Aircooled engine: clean and airtight is happy.

Take it out and have fun for the summer..

you'll need a propex for the Winter..

Aircooled bliss..

Cordialement..



PS: free tune up and BBq for all Aircooled visitors..

Thanks very much for this message

That's exactly what I plan to do. Picking up a genuine head tonight. £180 later... Hopefully have it up and running for the weekend decided I'm not selling it. I'll just have to pile money into it

silverbullet wrote:What do you reckon for bedding in the cam lobes? 2000 rpm for 20 mins?

It's what I do on new cams... I've never personally tried to do it with an old cam and new lifters

Plenty of people saying they've done it with no ill effects, and plenty of others saying it's a 50/50

Type 4 stuff is normally kippered when you get into it... pitting and lifter overlap wear, plus 40 years of use have killed them

A while back I was reading about the lack of Zinc compounds in modern oil contributing to wear when running in new flat lobe type cams. Some words on it here = http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/fla ... -cam-tech/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and here https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=oil+a ... et+engines" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hi guys! well i finally got it running, much money, shouting and a few cylinder heads later, she runs like a dream!
thanks for all your help ive got just as many other problems now

the reason for my low oil pressure and metalic in the oil was someone had fitted the wrong dipstick and it had been driven around with about 1.5L of oil!!