Club 80-90 Forums

how far do you want it to rev.. 6k is more then enough.. especialy if forced induction.. revs aint any good in a bus...

But it won't need silly tall gearing and there will be no need to worry about bursting it! Of course it may turn out stronger than expected in which case I'll be looking for a different trans, but a 1.9 will give light-throttle cruising economy whatever it's bolted up to

Well, depends on what box you start with.. bigger tyres usefull to gear up if needed.. prob need to be wider to lay the power down.. and no 11's

The DW has had oiling plates fitted but I will have to watch it in 4th and 5th as it's got the quiet (fine) gears:

1st 4,11
2nd 2,33
3rd 1,476
4th 1,023
5th 0,77

FD 4,86

Top is still 20mph/1000 with correct size tyres and it goes pretty well with the EJ22 anyway.

It'll be OK...for a while

At last!!! The EJ is finally behaving itself so it might get to stay for a while yet

Fitting the VSS (ecu had a cut tail on the loom plug so it must have had one before) had caused the slightly disappointing result of raising the cold idle speed, but that told me that I was onto something.

I went right back to square one and re-set the throttle stop screw (usually a big no-no) and then the idle switch position (data/clearances for both are available if you go looking and ask around) but it was still around 1200 rpm cold.

Then it dawned on me - the ISCV stepper motor must have been wrong all along! It had been set far too high in the duty cycle i.e. too far open, so when it warmed up the ecu couldn't fully close it and the idle would climb as the engine got up to temp; because it was passing too much air and going lean I had always assumed it was correct as there was no sign of it having been disturbed. Wrong...

So i got brave, slackened the adjustment screws and backed it off to get idle at 850-900 rpm. Job done after all this time. A proper road test will show if the VSS sorts the full-load high-speed misfire. Here's hoping!

I've just found these, it won't end well...

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t107101-s ... ubaru.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://xcceleration.com/imp-gallery-rs.sc.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

meanwhile back in the land of standard wbx ?

Subarugears reversed cwp set required to get the best from anything like that eh? My little 2078 blower is only 0.78litre/rev so ideally suited to a squirty 1915cc motor (in my sick mind)

Boost calculators reckon about 19psi boost, based on 85% efficiency when geared at 2.5:1

That's about right. Design for engine at 6k, blower is efficient up to 15k and safe for 18k

Bit of an old topic on samba about a turbo wbx but might be useful http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=486314" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Not dead, just resting. Had a rummage in a crate to refresh my memory, had a bit of a think, put it all away again...

It was no good, I just had to get in the crate again and pile it all up on top of a case. Those chargecoolers are going to fill up the engine bay a treat:

The crazy thing is that there is a huge gap (about 2") under the blower and that volume will be needed. How this thing was ever in a 2wd I dont know. Maybe the engine was dropped?
More thinking needed.

The massive wasted space between the blower and the crankcase:

I am pretty sure that the central body of the compressor can be flipped over to change it from top discharge to bottom, so the outlet plenum can be underneath.
I can see most of the original mounting plate going in the alloy scrap bin...

I realized that the only was to move thia forward was to bin all the original mounting plates and start again. The distributor and breather tower are early casualties, neither are needed as this is going to be fully mapped and have positive crankcase ventilation.
This meant that the blower could then move forward and down (the nose piece is designed to be shortened as required) and so reduce the overall height.
Thanks to CJH for providing a few dimensions of where the crankcase *should* sit, it looks like I can now get the chargecoolers and plenum under the hatch, this crude mockup indicates 180mm from the top of the front lifting eye, so it will fit the 2wd without resorting to an engine drop.


PS You will notice that the PAS pump and the alternator are doing a little dance...

PPS must put a crank in it to get a better idea of belt runs...

So I put a crank in the case, remembered that I had an E30 PAS pump knocking around that has neat little mounting brackets, turned the V8 intercoolers into V6 ones at the bandsaw and piled it all up again. Once the top plenum is remade with the discharge ports at the flywheel end the coolers can drop down a bit more.



It will need an idler for the waterpump/pas belt to clear the blower nose, and the alternator can probably nudge in a bit, but I am determined to get the a/c working again, so that decides the positioning of the coolers (to keep them symmetrical)

E D I T: $#@£%€¿ touch keyboard!!!

This might just work out.