Club 80-90 Forums

New Temp 2 sensor has made 3/5 of bu99er all difference!

Adjusted the TPS so that it switches with the throttle slightly further open.... kangarooing still happens at the same point in the rev range.

Cleaned the AFM track with a different type of contact cleaner and a tiny bit of "abrasion" from a cotton bud.... no difference.

Swapped the old dizzy cap and rotor arm that I was re-trying back to the new ones from JK and that introduces a bit of hesitation at different points of the rev range, so seems the money was not well spent there!

Any good/recommended VW specialists in the Northampton area?

Did you check throttle position sensor and harness were set ok and working?

Sounds like a mare, good luck with getting it sorted, mine does this a bit but only at low revs in 1st and 2nd.

Swapped the old dizzy cap and rotor arm that I was re-trying back to the new ones from JK and that introduces a bit of hesitation at different points of the rev range, so seems the money was not well spent there!

Sllight clue there then.

Still think it sounds too rich, genuine 'kangarooing' is sympton of richness every day of the week

Tried closing the plug gaps a wee bit??

Checked the injectors (every one for dripping?)

They are gapped at .7mm, but I can try nipping them up a smidge (or 2 tads!) tomorrow. Not taken the injectors out..... was sure it was an ignition control issue, but will pull those tomorrow too and take a look.

The saga continues.....

Injectors are fine. Tried a diff dizzy cap and a shiny new rev-limiter rotor arm that I found in the bottom of my toybox (forgot i'd ever bought that) and it is little different i.e. hesitation at 1800rpm, but back to being ok at higher revs now.

Must confess to not having tried reducing the plug gap, because the tool pixies have taken my feeler gauges! Either that or some idiot left them sat on the engine and went out for a test drive..... but surely no-one would do such a stupid thing!!!

HOWEVER a kindly soul has taken pity on me and is passing on some bits for testing purposes. I'll post how I get on.

If fiddling with the spark side of things changes the problem, then I would have thought the problem lies there, somewhere.

After a good run are all the plugs exactly the same colour. If one is not the same then there lies the problem.

Also, but harder to check is the fuel pressure, which can cause funny and inconsistent running problems.

Good to see you are still going.

Simon.

I've admitted defeat...... it's going into a garage tomorrow.

Now have the fear factor to overcome of just how much they are going to end up charging and whether they actually find the problem at the end of it!!

what's the impedence of the leads ? they have to be balanced 6k ohm give or take a bit, 2-3k for the coil lead iirc

Oh ar$e !!!

Just measured the HT leads and I have 10k ohm to the coil and then 8, 8.75, 9.6 and 11.25 to the 4 leads !!!! I take it that that could be a big factor then?

Don't know how I've missed this till now. Not measured the old leads to see if they are similar since it is like the bl00dy arctic out there......

Does this mean I have the wrong leads or just a rubbish set? They're new Bosch ones from JK, but.....

that's a fair spread of resistance, I had this problem with a set of leads from JK, led to poor running but by the time I'd diagnosed (engine out for rebuild) they were out of warranty, by then my disi had gone bang too and trying to find an MV disi back them was a real problem. I'd only use bosch or beru leads and Brickwerks would be my preferred source
coil lead should be 2kohm +/- 800 ohm
spark leads should be 6kohm +/- 1400 ohm - almost all the resistance is in the cap not the lead so length should not cause much variation
rotor should be 1k ohm +/- 400 ohm

some may remeber Project Caravelle had a problem once upon a time following fitting of new parts during service that he couldn't resolve and ended up throwing in the towel and selling the van at a big loss, then new owner replaced leads with a good old set and it was sorted for a tenner, just because new don't assume they are good, (lets face it nowadays what if anything is made better than it used to be) if anything is changed, especially if it's not because of a fault, keep the old to be able to revert if necessary.
I think this has been wikied previuosly, I hope so

working on these engines you need to have Bentley and Haynes and be methodical, the procedure for checking this, if this then that is well documented and seems to work.

I hope this is part of or indeed the major issue and sorry I didn't read the post previously, but with so many replies I assumed the usual suspects had diagnosed it

Some may remeber Project Caravelle had a problem once upon a time following fitting of new parts during service that he couldn't resolve and ended up throwing in the towel and selling the van at a big loss, then new owner replaced leads with a good old set and it was sorted for a tenner, just because new don't assume they are good, (lets face it nowadays what if anything is made better than it used to be) if anything is changed, especially if it's not because of a fault, keep the old to be able to revert if necessary.
I think this has been wikied previuosly, I hope so

I'll make sure that is put in all the right places in the Wiki Aidan, a good point !

Since you're still at it I thought I should mention that mine worked pretty good since last time I posted, until I sold it a month ago and bought a diesel. The new owner raised some concerns after he got home, apparently the oil looked more like tar and the coolant had had a weird color . But otherwise he did his 600km trip home without any sign of trouble.

Got it back from the garage today. They didn't manage a definitive diagnosis, but their number 1 suspicion from the tests they'd done was the AFM. Everything checking out ok, but they didn't have another AFM to try swapping out.

Mentioned the HT lead resistances and he didn't seem to think it should be a major problem.... reckon I might try getting another set though.

Can't knock the garage though. Had it all day (not sure exactly how long they spent on it) but didn't charge me a penny since they hadn't come up with a definite diagnosis. Not too many places around that'd do that. If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=61319" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

mattk918 wrote:
Can't knock the garage though. Had it all day (not sure exactly how long they spent on it) but didn't charge me a penny since they hadn't come up with a definite diagnosis. Not too many places around that'd do that. If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good

Garage now in wiki T25 competent garages at =>
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ga ... c#Midlands" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Any omissions or additions, let me know

Good stuff, but shouldn't that be in the Herts, Bucks and Beds section