Club 80-90 Forums

Well,

Talking now about oils... yeh the turbo is new but not the engine (almost 290k kms on the clock) so... the engine is not like new... any suggestion?

FUCHS 15W-40 fully synth in the UK from GSF (£15-50/gallon)... will withstand higher temps

Well,

VW dealer here has no the parts I need. It sux a bit.

I need from the intake manifold six hexagonal bolts, from the exhaust manifold 8 bolts, washers and nuts, and from the turbo 4 big bolts...

Anyone has the parts? Any website or shop online(only from UK)?

By the way, can anyone tell me how to change this post title? Dunno how to do it!

I can get the bolts and send them to you, they do add up a bit though and especially the 4 turbo to manifold bolts (about £12.50 each!!)

So £50 for those 4 + probably about £20 for the rest, maybe a bit more inc VAT

I might have some bolts that can be used in place of the expensive ones, I'll have a look and see if I can supply some cheaper, they're 12.8 grade.

I have changed the Subject for you, but if you want to E D I T it, the author of first post (you) can E D I T the first post and change the title/subject without changing the message!

I'm away for a few days now, so if you want some or all of them ordered from VW let me know tonight and they will be there when I get back on Tuesday...

Well...

Are these bolts made from gold or so?

Thanks for your post HarryMann, but if that is the cheaper price I think I will try to get them here... If I don't find them, then I will ask to you...

I am still astonished...

i was astonished too... so i sourced some engineering equivalents, which are hex socket cap screws rather than the 12-point 12mm bi-hex heads.

It might be worth getting a firm price first, they have been messing with a lot of prices lately, both dpwn as well as up... but they certainly were £13 each!

Well

Here you can see the prices for the turbo bolts... more or less the same but on €...

http://kaefer-co.de/index.php?view=deta ... ge&id=3217

I don't know why that price yet... I think I can get the same price for titanium bolts...

They're a heat resisting low creep steel, to stay tight, and made to a high spec and with a flanged head. They're tightened to about 35~ 40 ft-lbs I think

The manifold itself and the turbo exhaust housing are made of a high Nickel- Chrome (nimonic) steel, and presumably the bolts' expansion coefficient is matched to them.

Well friends,

I have installed the exhaust manifold and the turbo... I have not installed the metallic pipe from turbo blower/sucker/whatever, I think the engine will work nicely without that "thing", in fact when I fixed the gearbox 1 1/2 year ago, all the covers from the engine bay (downside) went to the trash container, this way the engine feels fresh... The only thing underside is the sump protector...
So what do you think/suggest? Do I try for some kilometres without the turbo blower or should I to install it?

Thanks for that description, Simon. I always wondered why the system was set up that way. It sounds like a clever system! In my van, my starter sometimes takes a few seconds to engage, and during that time when I have the key turned I can hear the fan and pump working away in my engine bay. Ive never heard it on before after turning the engine off, but then again in hotter climates that would probably be different. Also Im careful to use only very high quality oil in my engine, always with the VW 505-00 certification on it. I suppose that helps too. So if that pump pumps water around the housing above the oil filter (i know where it is) why do people fit oil coolers, considering the van already has what sounds like quite an effective one?

why do people fit oil coolers, considering the van already has what sounds like quite an effective one?

Because its really a heat exchanger as much as a cooler, to heat the oil up quickly. And if the oil gets much above 90~100C then the water starts to cool it, but that, in my opinion is rather marginal.

When working hard the TD diesels produce lots of heat, and a lot goes into the oil due to the oil throwers and the turbo...

Put an oil temp gauge on and you'll see, under constant motorway cruising and long hill-climbs, just how high those temps go.

Peeps don't put coolers with long runs of pipe on for fun - they're expensive

With my experiences of buzzer of doom while spain over summer, i will be investing in an oil cooler of some kind.

Using thicker oil stopped it buzzing at me, but i was still well aware of how hot that oil must have been running.
I just tried hard not to think about it. Its gotta be a good idea to keep everything as cool as possible with hard working, high revving engines such as these.

I've heard a lot of stories from owners who live here talking about the JX engine, they put solution to the heat and headgasket failure installing a better fan in front of the radiator, and they feel happy with that because it works... Some of them installed it with a manual switch and the others with an auto one...
In fact I have a Mitsubishi Canter oil cooler to install it in the van, but I need to install the connections where original VW oil cooler is...

but I need to install the connections where original VW oil cooler is...

No, most people leave that and fit that sandwich-plate as well... to keep the original cooling system pipework in place. Sandwich-plate take-offs come in two varieties, with or without a thermostat.. they're about £35 ~ £50 I seem to remember.

Because the resulting cantilever overhang off the filter housing increases, some are now using the shorter but fatter T4 oil filter, to play safe, a Simon Baxter idea I believe.

The water temp rad switch always seems to work well on my TD, and the fans on TDs seem remarkably reliable, large and powerful, being 550W (that's 2/3 HP!)The only mod I've made to the cooling system (apart from a new radiator), is to seal the fan-cowling to the rad with RTV silicone.

Once the switch triggers the fan, it takes just a few seconds to get the temps back under control