Club 80-90 Forums

Cobra88 wrote:I hate that shop with a passion.

yeh we ordered a Foker gas burner on line for delivery to store should be in next day a week later they could not find it, just incompetent.

slowcoach wrote:Is New Forest what you call Go Outdoors?

No, that was on the way home, the new forest is on my doorstep, I go there 3 days of most weeks, makes me laugh when you see a tourist stop in the road and get out to photograph a pony like they never saw one before.

I was taking this lad for a walk for a friend, this was after 2 hours walk...

I decided to do the pop top camper today, always quicker the second time

took some before pics this time




pretty much the same



and the same on the near side chassis but a little less, not sure why the near side suffers more, perhaps more wet on this side or more potholes?



off side is good

I use high density breeze blocks laid on their sides three on each side and a block of wood under chassis rails by jacking points.

my gravel is well packed but if not use a metal plate under trolley jack.

I'm not recommending it to anybody but as you asked it's what I do, I have had the jacking police at my door complaining before so you choose your own method that you feel safe with.

Many thanks for this and completely understand that this is not a recommendation. It is just useful to know what others do and pictures are a great help thanks again.

itchyfeet wrote:Anybody know what sort of situation I should expect to see an improvement?

It limits front-rear motion of the strut as I understand it - so should be better in situations where the strut us under load - under heavy braking, pot holes, speed humps etc.

For other vehicles you might also expect to see some benefit under hard acceleration

I found that the van feels better on rough roads, but I think my bushes were in a worse state. Most noticeable improvement I've seen is on that stretch of road hell that is the M6 elevated section through Birmingham with deck joints every few metres - much less twitchy than it used to be.

For you though I reckon the biggest improvement is that you've caught it before it rubs a massive hole through your chassis!

T25Convert wrote:

itchyfeet wrote:Anybody know what sort of situation I should expect to see an improvement?

It limits front-rear motion of the strut as I understand it - so should be better in situations where the strut us under load - under heavy braking, pot holes, speed humps etc.

For other vehicles you might also expect to see some benefit under hard acceleration

I found that the van feels better on rough roads, but I think my bushes were in a worse state. Most noticeable improvement I've seen is on that stretch of road hell that is the M6 elevated section through Birmingham with deck joints every few metres - much less twitchy than it used to be.

For you though I reckon the biggest improvement is that you've caught it before it rubs a massive hole through your chassis!

Thanks deffo better on cattle grid.

pop top welded, ground back, filed, painted this evening.

Ohhh look what came with the second set of bushes from Brickwerks

itchyfeet wrote:Ohhh look what came with the second set of bushes from Brickwerks

I think you're in trouble there. You really need the more compliant yellow compound for the T3 keys. Return it before fitting!

forgot to mention the tightening of the rod, really need a deep 27mm socket and a 27mm open end spanner to do this to 100Nm, the rod into the arm is 180Nm and you can't do with out a crowfoot wrench ( which I don't have and quality ones are very expensive) and and adjusting the torque setting for the ofset so I just gave it a good wellie with the open ended spanner and a bit to 48mm scaffold pole, I can't see it coming undone but I will check it.

is this the right place or should it be on the back?

Anybody with some teenagers if you could ask please

itchyfeet wrote:is this the right place or should it be on the back?

Anybody with some teenagers if you could ask please

good write up this,

I am also wondering about whether to put the Yellow softer compound on my Doka (non-Syncro) anyone got any thoughts?

pkrboo wrote: I am also wondering about whether to put the Yellow softer compound on my Doka (non-Syncro) anyone got any thoughts?

Having see the density of the Purple I would not bother with yellow for a 2wd, they don't seem to be hard, just a bit firmer than the standard, still quite squashy.

I don't know why James needed a jubilee clip to get them into the cups, mine went in easily.

itchyfeet wrote:

pkrboo wrote: I am also wondering about whether to put the Yellow softer compound on my Doka (non-Syncro) anyone got any thoughts?

Having see the density of the Purple I would not bother with yellow for a 2wd, they don't seem to be hard, just a bit firmer than the standard, still quite squashy.

I don't know why James needed a jubilee clip to get them into the cups, mine went in easily.

ive ordered the purple in the end.

purple ARB too but the drop links for the ARB i have done in yellow as they are easier to get in apparently

pkrboo wrote:
purple ARB too but the drop links for the ARB i have done in yellow as they are easier to get in apparently

Some pics and a write up please when you do it

Uploading pics here... https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=168842" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;