Club 80-90 Forums

So definately a 34 DAT then?
Give JK a call with carb details (and any numbers off the carb, receipt if you have it) and ask if it was sold for a DF or DG, they would probably be jetted differently, they may not have the answer but worth a try.
If it was for a DF then it definately needs to go, if it was for a DG then there is not such a hurry.

Yes definitely a 34DAT just been looking through the receipts. Just kampers part number is J13646. I have just rang jk they tell me on there system it says the carb can only be used on a DG unless the manifold is changed, I would assume this means it would be set up for a DG.

in addition; you were spot on about the engine change, just looked at the V5, this has the engine code starting with a DF suffix. However as the photo below shows a DG replacement engine was fitted in 1997. Knowhere on the list below does it show a new carb or dizzy being fitted.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vp7skoru8kra7 ... 0.jpg?dl=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/etf8to8ynyxo3 ... 8.jpg?dl=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In conclusion, not such a hurry to get rid of the Weber I'm tempted to get the new dizzy and take it to a rolling road to see if it can be set up right. I feel like if the advance was set up right then this carb might actually be okay.

Getting there

You don't need a rolling road to set a dizzy up, you just need a timing strobe at 30 quid and some white paint or tippex, Rolling road us usually to set a carb up.
If this carb was sold as a Pierburg replacement it should already be jetted correctly for a DG.
Now being JK that may not be true

Other than the dizzy you could have other issues such as blocked filters, pipes, tank, silt in carb, poor fuel pump...
You need the right dizzy for sure but before spending more money check proper fuel delivery.

So, if I fit the new dizzy and get the timing sorted then connect the advance to the carb would this not mean the carb would need seeing up again?

The main setup of a carb on a rolling road is selecting the right jets, it's usually for performance and modified engines.
So for example Pierburg and VW would have done that for the DG, selected the right jets ( and ignition timing) and that's what all Pierburgs for a DG have.
There is an idle co setup but that doesn't need a rolling road becausd it's at idle.
There is probably a choke adjustment but again a rolling road isn't much help here.
Maybe an accelerator pump adjustment could be done on a rolling road.

So in my opinion you don't need a rolling road unless the webber was never jetted correctly for the T25 DG.
If JK were selling it for a DG it should be about right.

Gotcha

I'll be tackling this next week, I'm away tomorrow. I'll track down a dizzy next week.

Try this chap, sells on here and other forums, phone is best ( Mick)
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/memberlist. ... le&u=24011" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.nwvw.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ah yes, spoke to Mick quite a few times, top bloke. I'll give him a ring when I get back. I'm aiming for an original bosch dizzy I assume?

Hey all, so, replaced the fuel filter under the van today and tied it up out of the way. I also removed the one out of the engine bay and replaced the two fuel lines from the petrol pump with R9 hose.

Two quick questions, should the cover on top of the carb that leads to the air filter be an airtight fit? Mine only has two screws in and has a little bit of play in it.

Also does anyone know where I can get a replacement of the picture below? (And what it's called?) It's a cover that goes over the right hand space in the engine bay and the air filter passes through it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nx7byizdfnk6v ... 1.jpg?dl=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Rang Mick for the replacement dizzy and left a message, will try him again tomorrow. I'm aiming to get an original one. Next stage is to get the dizzy and attempt to do the timing myself

yes airtight

Ah, really. Okay should it have any sort of rubber seal or just plastic on metal? Also what are they called?

cubensis wrote:Ah, really. Okay should it have any sort of rubber seal or just plastic on metal? Also what are they called?

Mine has a big O ring under the air duct where it fits on the carb with three nuts and rubberised washers

Oh, mine has non of that. I suppose this means it can suck grit and dust in does it?

The Weber 34 DAT screws don't line up with the original cover, 2 do 1 is in the wrong place, I'll have to have a think. Been trying to look for a new one, I'm searching for carburetor air cover, hopefully I'll find something, I'll get the measurement tomorrow and order an O ring for it, thanks. Slowly but surely fixing all these little issues is quite satisfying!

Just a quick update, thanks for the link to Mick itchy feet, he's posting out the correct dizzy should get it early next week. Is this the sort of thing I can fit myself if I follow the Haynes? And if so are there any tips or tricks?

yes easy to fit but ideally need new oil seal and they can be tight to fit
need to.loosen the clamp ring and twist while pushing down, put the cap on to push.
you will need a timing gun to adjust timing Gunson are good.