Club 80-90 Forums

That push rod is possibly the most bodged thing I have ever seen, yee hawwww

if you are going telescopic tubes then no harm it trying used followers, if they don't work out you can replace them later.

Used lifters will be better than the lash up you currently have
They must be hospital clean though before you fit

@kevtherev I have just put all new hydraulic lifters and rods to match in and now I have no adjustment on the tappets at all. Can't get a gap. Wound out fully there is still no gap. I am stumped.

that is correct.
Did you read the ratwell guide?

Instead of setting the valve lash to 0.006", the hydraulic adjusting screw makes contact with the valve stem and you turn the screw 1 1/2 turns and you're finished. No feeler gauges are required. The engine pumps the lifter full of oil and as the clearances of the engine parts change due to heating expansion, the lifter adjusts automatically. Besides fewer required valve adjustments it means less startup wear on the valve train compared to a solid lifter engine because the engine is adjusted at all temperatures not just when the engine is hot.

did you fill them first?

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Hydrau ... l#whatisit" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have to say kev that pic does not look right to me
rocker gear should not touch valve springs
will dig out a pic later

You're right, hmm are there no collets on the valves do you think

@kevtherev i have read the ratwell and understand it, but the rockers are touching the spring tops and not the tappets. if i wind out the tappets as far as they go until they are no longer touching, the rocker ends up resting on there instead. There is no give in it. Are you saying that this is where i am supposed to start, get the tappet on bite and then wind in 1.5 turns? I still think there is something up with this. Another question is do you think that this would change if i turned the engine over by the key a few times with the dizzy off? Maybe they are not pumped or dont have any oil, or neeed loosening up. I didnt fill them with oil first, i presumed the turning over of the engine would promote this.

@itchyfeet do you know what im saying? from the pics can you see?

this is the first pic from the thread showing the gap - they look ok to me - what would a collet achieve?

collets fit at the top of the valve and hold the spring level with the valve stem...I guess you never removed the springs.
I was just thinking out loud

Did you check the length of the pushrods?

270mm long and 9mm diameter. @kevtherev

Is it possible the pushrods aren't seated properly in the recesses in the tops of the followers? I haven't actually tackled this job myself yet, but I've read that's a possibility where the rods are installed in situ. It would be odd for every single one to be wrong though wouldn't it?

just re-read the ratwell guide. they must be solids. Both the members who sold them to me on here said they were out of a 1.9 wbx though. what a waste of time that has been.

"Solid: Aluminum with steel tips (271mm long) - Hydraulic: 1-piece steel (262mm long)" might have to be getting some refunds.

Brickwerks have recently started selling Kolbenschmidt followers for a good price - that's the OE manufacturer.

They're still not cheap though. If you're looking for a cheap (i.e. free) fix, I have a set of 8 hydraulic followers that you can have for just the postage cost. They're out of an engine that I bought from a scrap yard, and they look quite high mileage, which is why I bought new. But you're welcome to them if you're in a bind. They'll need stripping and cleaning up I think.

PeeSG wrote: "Solid: Aluminum with steel tips (271mm long) - Hydraulic: 1-piece steel (262mm long)" might have to be getting some refunds.

No, that's not right for the WBX engines. 272mm is correct.

@CJH So why does ratwell say different, and why do they not allow any adjustment?