Club 80-90 Forums

Or copper slip, copper slip is my friend

Any point in trying to source stainless bolts as replacements?

No, they were just fitted without any form of lubrication which is ridiculous.

I wouldn't use a copper grease though - copper, aluminium and steel with moisture doesn't mix and it could end up the same. Stainless in there has its own problems also as noted by many a boat owner. Personally I would use graphite grease - what is the general view as to what to use?

I did the same job while back with a thread and pics on here, not sure but prob used copper grease- not well informed enough about reasons not to. Good luck and fingers crossed.

I think its safe to assume, given the extent of corrosion (and it was brown rust at that), water can get into those bolt holes in the housing via the gasket. Fine if previous owners have been diligent with maintaining antifreeze concentration but if they haven't I'm sure they'd soon end up like some head studs do.

Fortunately I've always kept on top of it since I had the van but that housing could so easily have been wrecked leaving me with far fewer options.

Not had chance to tackle the refit yet. What with trains/buses to get in and out to work, I'm whacked when I get home.

However, I've taken time to clean out the thermostat housing and seat and anything else I can get to (old gaskets etc) so I know that everything that goes back is clean, sound, and hopefully easier to get off if I had to in future. As they say, prep is everything.

One other point, (and who knows, this thread might be useful to anyone who has to do a pre-85 water pump change), you HAVE to replace that short stubby hose at back of pump. The reason being is that its bad enough changing the pump in the first place, but if you just refit the old rubber hose and later on it splits, you've got that job all over again!

My suggestion (and its 32mm internal diameter - ID) is replace it with a length of silicon hose - that way you should minimise future probs. The same ID hose should also fit the lower pipe that is joined in two sections behind main pulley wheel. Change that one as well. All the others you could get to but those you can't without removing pump again.

It would be sheer madness not to replace them I'd say.... Just have my scouts trying to locate some. Bit stuffed without transport and online orders not an option for me.

You can cut silicon hose accurately with a stanley knife if you first slide on a jubilee clip and use that as your straight edge.

Been a week since I started this job and you can see the hassles I've had. Finally its back together,

Anyone who has to tackle replacing a water pump on a pre-85 1.9DG has my utmost sympathy but I can at least forewarn you of the unexpected potential obstacles.

1. Expect stuck thermostat bolts (or just one stuck one) which may even require the use of a milling machine to drill out any that won't budge. The thermostat housing is (I believe) obsolete so treat it like its made of gold. You may need to partially grind away parts of old pump in order to remove thermostat housing from pump - then deal with bolts.

2. The thermostat will likely be corroded in and need a screwdriver or small cold chisel to get it out. Clean all casting faces very carefully, removing deposits and any old gaskets before fitting new thermostat.

2. Expect VERY VERY tight allen bolts on lower metal water pipes which could leave the heads chewed. Plus-gas helps but not much! A rounded bolt head remover comes in very handy and no matter how much the set is, it'll be cheaper and easier than faffing around with chisels or easy-outs.

3. You'll need instant gasket, using a thin smear at major joints for a watertight fit.

4. You'll need to remove both water pump pulley and main pulley. Main pulley will be in the way of all the stuff you need to get at. Pulley bolt will shift with a big adjustable, locking the fanbelt, and smacking the adjustable sharply with a lump hammer to free nut. Water pump pulley bolts can be loosened at same time as main pulley bolt, but only loosen all these bolts first - then remove the pulleys. The belt needs to be attached to do it.

5. You're highly unlikely to complete the job in one day - sorry....

6. You slide thermostat and pump (as one unit) on to the two metal pipes, leaving one pipe loosely bolted to give you enough room to do this. Its annoying, but it will go once you have pump lines up with its three studs. Use plenty of instant gasket around pipe that has the small O-ring - you do not want to chance leaks there. That O-ring has a habit of staying out so check carefully that it DID go in with pipe and its not hanging out somewhere. Instant gasket will help it slide in and help seal it properly.

7. You'll need to fill and bleed the system with plain water to make sure it doesn't actually leak, before draining and refilling with the 50/50 antifreeze mix.

8. Do not push yourself and don't attempt this job in the hope you'll be at some camper meet the next day. You will be disappointed.

9. Just pay someone else to do it - its a horrible, nasty, contemptuous job and there will be plenty of moments when you'll contemplate removing the engine in desperation or even suicide. Its not nice.

Cup of tea with 8 sugars now needed.

On the plus side my temperature guage reads correctly since first time I've had it and engine sounds OK despite the fact it boiled big time. The oil however will be shot having got so hot so I'll be replacing that.

I like point 9 - pay someone else to do it! Well done Ralph - sounds like it's been a bitch.

Worse than a bitch I'd say Ron.

Also need to change that oil and figure out why charging light is on - if I haven't killed the alternator too....

Unfortunately a pump swap (whilst fine on paper) did't seem to go too well due to the reality of bolts that looked as if they'd been used more than once, plus being on there for a very long time. I fitted new bolts on reassembly and I'd highly recommend that anyone else who tackles this does the same otherwise it makes the job a 100 times worse than it needs to be - the next time it has to be done. This is the same level of thinking you'd adopt on brake caliper bolts where a dose of copper-based grease is deemed sensible. Thinking ahead, II also used slightly longer allen bolts and threaded a nut on them so it sat underneath the head - my reasoning being that if the head rounds, there is at least a nut beneath that you could get hold of.

Not that I'll do it again.

Nice one covkid , saved to file for future reference

Glad it's sorted covkid, these vans were sent to try us!

The water pump sure is. I'd rather do a water jacket swap.

Anyway I've WIKI'd it: https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... overhaul_3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - along with all potential problems and solutions...

Particular thanks to Neil (Hakuna Matata) who despite not being at all well, drove all the way from Leicester to see if he could help me. Many thanks my friend. Also Ronsrecord for his kind offer. Both of these members have always been willing to roll up their sleeves and I regard them as highly-valued and close friends. Not forgetting Jakemate either for offering to mill that stuck bolt out for me! Thanks to all of you for your great suggestions in this thread.

Almost 800 reads so someone else must be contemplating water pump suicide on a 1.9DG...

And people wonder why we love our diesels!

Excepting people with breathing problems, copd, asthma etc