Club 80-90 Forums

ScienceBoy wrote:Ok. So they are M6 and about 16mm. So I've got some ss ones in, but of course the bolts at the back are rusted and rounded...
Any suggestions?

Irwin bolt removers.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290463114744" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (and many other sources - make sure you get the "double set" including ten)

These things _work_...

Got the back right off. Going to use the ramps tomorrow and see if I have more luck with the back left from underneath and in front.

I'm sure someone posted the pressure ratings of the dalek cap somewhere. If I can easily blow through it in both directions it's knackered?

ScienceBoy wrote:Got the back right off. Going to use the ramps tomorrow and see if I have more luck with the back left from underneath and in front.

I had exactly the same problem. The Irwins got the front pair off from on top, easily. From underneath sounds like a nice way to insanity and elastoplast all over your forearms.

I'm sure someone posted the pressure ratings of the dalek cap somewhere. If I can easily blow through it in both directions it's knackered?

Yep.

Cheers Adrian.
I'll give it one go, and then I'll be off to Screwfix where I see there have some in stock.

Weel Adrian, I decided to cut straight to getting the Irwins.
Wow.
Again, wow.
Bolt came straight off. I recommend everyone gets a set. Homebase were cheapest locally for the basic set.

So now I've replaced the bolts, I'm about to order replacement pieces. I tried blowing air through the vent on the thermostat housing but it didn't see to work. Perhaps that small plastic vent is blocked. Buy a new anyway...

the cap has to be opened by twisting it
but they do get blocked

Yeh, I had opened and closed the valve.

Just a reminder, do check (by blowing or squirting water via a washing up liquid bottle et al) that all the thin pipes connected and around the bleed ring are clear of obstructions.

Cheers Ghost. Yes I blew back through the (broken) dalek and water came out the nipple connected to the thermostat housing. I'd removed the hose there. So all looks ok on that front.

Aye, but also check the "T" piece pipe that comes off the bleed rail, the one by the rear left hand side that goes to a fatter rubber pipe to the rear of the left cylinder head (and any other "T" pieces)

Will do. Do pull all the pipes off and blow them?

my bleed ring pipes were full of this..

]

You know you're supposed to put water in those, not cement?

Ok. Refilled the coolant today, and might I say he's running like a dream now!

Some frustrations. Sheared one of the shielding bolts getting the drains. Lost the BLOODY radiator vent bolt when running in. Missus got shirty when I called her out, apparently holding your finger over a hole of boiling water isn't a good enough reason to shout. What that long bolt? Surely there's a better way. I had trouble putting it in when boiling fluid wasn't ejaculating all over the place!

Took a while to flush all the brown crap out of the system ( anxiety now) and then started the filling with this from Baxter

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/bleed ... 29710.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Now instead of getting to twelve o'clock and spewing water out the expansion tank, it happily went to one o'clock without incident. Even got the high speed fan to come in. And no drama!,,

Kevin, I found a small blockage in the elbow of the last connection on the rail. Some wire sorted it out. All the other connections were ok. Replaced the dalek, thermostat, and upper housing, and some *#€¥$?¥ rusty jubilees. Added 8 litres of concentrate. Lost a little during radiatorgate. Only added about four litres of water, and I did keep checking. Figure some water was left in from flushing.

So I'll give it another go ASAP and recheck levels etc, but I think it's running better than ever.

Now for a long hot bath. My body is in pain from all that contortion!