Club 80-90 Forums

Cheers, yes it still has the electronic ignition, but the idling stabiliser has been removed. I'll double check that the plugs are connected together properly and then do the test you suggested.

bigherb wrote:Turn the ignition on then scrap the paper clip along a metal part of the engine you should get spark from the HT lead. If you do get a spark then it is a distributor fault. No spark then it is an ignition amplifier/wiring fault.

when you say turn the ignition on do you mean to the first point or to cranking the engine?

Thanks again for all your help ;o)
Cheers, Ben

First point, just the ignition lights on.

Thanks, I'll check tomorrow.

Just done the scrape test and got a spark, the fuel pump also buzzed for a moment too. So that points to the distributor? the chap that fitted the carbs for me said that he had had to adjust the timing (can't remember if it was advanced or retarded now) because the distributor shaft?? was worn, he also said it would be no problem, but that it may be prudent to replace if i was having trouble keeping the engine idling.

Is it best to replace the whole distributor - as it's worn?
I'm not sure which type it should be only that it shouldn't be replaced with a 009!

Cheers,

Ben

Take the cap off and see if the distributor shaft is turning first, it may not have been seated down properly.

Cheers, I'll try that this evening when I'm back from work.
Sorry if this is asking the obvous but is it a case of popping the cap off and getting a helper to turn the key to turn the engine over whilst I see if the distributer shaft is turning?
Will the shaft turn with the cap off?

Cheers,

Ben

ben50 wrote: Sorry if this is asking the obvous but is it a case of popping the cap off and getting a helper to turn the key to turn the engine over whilst I see if the distributer shaft is turning?
Will the shaft turn with the cap off?

Yes.
The distributor may have ridden up when as it was turned when the timing was adjusted.

cool, I'll check tonigh, Thanks ;o)

Just checked and the distributor shaft turns when cranking the engine.

Does this point to the hall sender, the ignition control unit and the associated wiring?

Might I be better off just replacing it all with these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130595742847? ... 1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120822373506? ... 1423.l2649

We're meant to be going away in it for the upcoming bank holiday weekend, and I don't fancy a repeat of the last one - we ended up being towed home and having to take the car and awning instead the following day ;o(

Cheers,

Ben

Well it is all saying to me that the whole fuel pump thing may be both a red herring and a white elephant. Seems lack of spark may have been the problem all along. I'd replace dizzy with the powerspark/simonbbc svda unit and do away with ignition amp and loom etc. Simple and reliable.

Cool, cheers for the reply.

is that the right distributor? I don't need a different vacuum one?

Presumably I'll be needing to get the timing done again or is there a way of matching the distributor up to the old one?

Cheers,

Ben

Before you go to far check you have more than 5V across the two outside pins of the three pin distributor plug with the ignition switched on. If you haven't the there may be a bad connection in the bypassed idling stabiliser plug.

ben50 wrote:Does this point to the hall sender, the ignition control unit and the associated wiring?

Might I be better off just replacing it all with these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130595742847? ... 1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120822373506? ... 1423.l2649

We're meant to be going away in it for the upcoming bank holiday weekend, and I don't fancy a repeat of the last one - we ended up being towed home and having to take the car and awning instead the following day ;o(

Cheers,

Ben

The distributor will work as long as you still have a vacuum advance connected. Ideally you would be better off with the original type distributor or fit a new Hall sender unit.
Your coil or the one you linked to won't work you will need a standard coil as fitted to points ignition like a Bosch blue coil.

Not actually sure what's been going on with the distributor, what part was worn for it to need adjusting?

Hi, cheers, just been out and checked the voltage across the two outer pins and I'm getting 11.5v would that point to a hall sender issue? Could I have shorted it when connecting the relay etc up?

I've already ordered the coil and distributor i linked to, I figure the worst case i could carry them as spares in case i get stranded and I can maybe limp along!

I'm going to ring the garage that fitted the carbs for me tomorrow and hopefully I'll be able to talk to the chap that said that the distributor needed replacing - it was something about having to either retard or advance the timing so the engine could idle better? but that doesn't really make much sense to me.

Cheers,

Ben

Hi, I rang the garage yesterday but the chap I needed to talk to was busy at the time and they didn't get back to me, but i did discover this amongst the mounting van invoices:



not sure if that is enough info to explain though, I'll try to get in touch with them again today!

Cheers,

Ben