Club 80-90 Forums

Boxy, MartinR, top suggestions and Martin, yours sounds very very similar to my problem.

Funny thing is, on the old engine it was a nightmare to start from cold, wouldnt run properly at all until warm, now with the new engine, it seems to have reversed !!. Maybe the relay as suggested has fouled up and someone previous to me had disconnected the choke heater, and now reconnecting it has caused the probs..?.I'll definitely be digging about and checking out the relay, and the wiring too. Maybe I'll just try disconnecting the choke heater first and see what happens ?.

All the same here's the van demonstrating what happens, it cuts out at the 45 second mark. Following the cut out, I try to restart as follows:

1. turn of key and a little throttle.
2. trying with no throttle, no starting until given some.
3. starting and revving until i take my foot off....aaand, it dies.

er, happy ? viewing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd3JEsg7y1g" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Quickly skim read this!

Anyone mentioned coil yet?

On coil, carb and ecu number 2 already if the engine fitters are to be believed. That said, it's not the coil it went in with, so safe to say it's on coil number 2

Did you have a live feed to 10 in the picture above before & after the stall?

Hi Boxy, I certainly have live feed now but I cannot remeber if I had prior to the install.

Would the complete lack of cold starting without lots of foot work hint towards the bypass cut off valve not working previously ?. Would it be advantageous to disconnect the live feed to it to see if that cures things or would that cause a different set of problems ?

In fact, what does it do ?

shuts a valve that cuts off fuel to the idle circuit in the carb... when the ignition is off

WHS ^^^^^^^^^^^

Just found this via Google. http://vwa1.dadoghouse.com/wp-content/u ... uction.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I haven't got time to read it now, but it might be helpful.

ecu ?
what ecu on 1.9 dg
You mean ignition module ?

I did mean ignition module, apologies.

What would happen if i disconnext the fuel idle shut off thingy?. I want to rule things in our out but do not want to do any damage of course.

With no power the soleniod valve will shut. This will cut the fuel to the idle circuit. It's designed to cut the fuel as soon as the ignition is switched off to stop the engine running on. If the problem is this valve it's because it's losing the 12v it needs to keep the solenoid open disconnecting won't help!

BOXY wrote:With no power the soleniod valve will shut. This will cut the fuel to the idle circuit. It's designed to cut the fuel as soon as the ignition is switched off to stop the engine running on. If the problem is this valve it's because it's losing the 12v it needs to keep the solenoid open disconnecting won't help!

But temporarily putting a known good 12 volt feed to it would rule out the possibility it is this causing the problem.

kevtherev wrote:OK
Stalling, unable to tick over when hot is a weak mixture/ worn fuel pump or maybe timing.

Have you looked at the possibility of air getting into the induction side, from these points

1. the brake servo hose (braided type)
2. the choke pull down unit diaphragm
3. the secondary throttle diaphragm
4. inlet manifold carb gasket.
5. inlet manifold head gasket.
6. Distributor diaphragm
7. fuel pump actuating rod worn.
8. fuel pump delivery

just some pointers for you to contemplate

Have you looked at any of these suggestions yet?
Lack of fuel and or a weak mixture will stall an engine dead.
Elimination is the key to detection.
Basics first...

No. 1 Fuel

Electrics are No 2

Hi Kev, this next week i am going to try the solenoid theory and give it a good 12v to see if this is where the problem lies. Having the van having 2 carbs and a different engine fitted that suddenly had the same problem, i think its electrical. Not sure tho. Ill be back in a week with the results !

The engine fitters stated they tried the following to rule things out, hence why im looking at electrical issues more now.they fitted:

X2 carbs, ignition modules, leads, dizzys, plugs and a complete and known to be running ok engine and all ancillaries. None of this addressed the fault .

Result !!!, as follows.

I tested the wire that feeds the idle cut off with the ignition on,10v. I then ran a wire from the battery + to the idle cut off. Engine started and ran for 30 mins, no cutting out and would restart perfectly.

Interstingly, the wire that normally feeds the idle cut off lost its volts at 11 mins of running and of course this is what has been causing the engine not to run. Thing is , why is it suddenly losing its volts ?