Page 30 of 206
Posted: 22 Jul 2008, 22:16
by woodola
Really sorry about that folks
Will have another go tomorrow, not very computer literate i,m ashamed to say but doing my best
Posted: 23 Jul 2008, 08:21
by desmond
HarryMann wrote:after the final coat with 1000 grade Wet & Dry. Wouldn't this leave scratch marks?
Not if W&D used properly wet, the paper kept wet and not allowed to 'block' with paint, just one drop of Fairy Liquid in't water helps. Discard paper if it blocks up before it 'tears' at your paint, have a bristle nail brush or similar in water bucket to scrub paint out of paper
A slight 'dry' mattness will cut back with buffer, but proper good* orange peel needs paper, sometimes less than 1000 even... Rolls Royce use this method (did, anyway) coat after coat (16 sometimes)
Use a proper rubber block for large flat surfaces and don't 'scrub' at it, keep working unidirectionally, horizontal usually being easiest and the minute scratches then won't show (they merge, being in one direction). Be particular how you hold the block, allow it to deform in one plane to match the contour but not the other, it won't 'shape' to the contour unless you help it a little. Black is the worst to show scratches!
*Orange peel is usually glossy, so is a double-edged sword, you don't really want it, but certainly when spraying, it
doesn't occur when paint is hitting surface
too dry, or drying too fast after hitting it (bloom)
Thanks for your reply Harry Mann, that gives me a bit more confidence to give it a go. Just wanted to make sure of a few things if OK:
orange peel needs paper, sometimes less than 1000 even...
By less do you mean rougher, like 800, or finer, like 1200?!
Also, is there a buffing machine or something I could use that would guarantee me a better result?
Thanks again for your help.
Posted: 23 Jul 2008, 18:27
by woodola
Posted: 23 Jul 2008, 18:39
by woodola
Posted: 23 Jul 2008, 20:59
by Joloke08
Hi woodola
the paint finish looks fabb!!!
the links do work fine but if you press image before and after the image location they appear on the forum page,it doesnt matter though its easy to click the link anyhoo just thought id mention it in case you wernt sure on how to display the images here on the forum page?If you want them to appear here on the page and your not sure how to do it give me a shout and ill post them for you if you like?
I havnt got a van yet but im fascinated by this whole topic and cant wait till i can do it myself
the results on your van are superb i just hope i can make as good a job when i do the same in the future?
Keep the pics comming
Huggz
Jodie
thinning
Posted: 23 Jul 2008, 21:04
by fisher4772
is there a prefered thinners to use to thin this paint...
Posted: 24 Jul 2008, 12:28
by DivingDaisee
Ref. page 23...White Spirit!
Posted: 24 Jul 2008, 14:21
by CovKid
I'm glad to see this is catching on now. Whats the RAL colour of that orange so I can add a pic to WIKI for reference?
P.S. Forget that - added photos to WIKI and guessed orange was RAL 2000
Posted: 24 Jul 2008, 20:04
by woodola
Sorry took so long been applying the forth coat. It says on the tin RAL <R> 2008 BRIGHT RED ORANGE 7306 yellow-combi color 7300. Hope this helps
Posted: 24 Jul 2008, 20:07
by ermie571
Hi - CovKid mine is Ral 2004 pure orange 7306 yellow combi colour 7300
Em
x
Posted: 24 Jul 2008, 20:11
by kevtherev
Posted: 28 Jul 2008, 07:16
by ermie571
Just a wquick note on throwing things away...
While I agree with Covkid that the price of the trays etc make it easier to throw away.....I occassionally give a little thought to the environment!
This weekend I have got another coat on the van, over 2 days of flatting and painting.
I used 1 roller and 1 tray, and one old ice cream tub, and an old paintbrush that is no longer good for painting, a sandwich bag, and an old t-shirt cut up for cloths. A couple of pairs of latex gloves
After one session of rolling, get the roller in the sandwhcig bag pronto. Make sure that the bag sticks to the foam roller everywhere...its not difficult, this paint is so sticky it does it itself!
Put some thinner in the tray, and use the old paintbrush towork it into the paint left in the tray. even if gone dry-ish and hard-ish it works. Leave afew mins to soften, then with the old brush clean the tray. When all the paint has come away, pour the thinner into an old jam jar, and when full, dispose of correctly. Use the old cloth to wipe the tray dry
The ice-cream tub I used for mixing thinner and paint. Again, cleans up in minutes using same method**
Its all in a carrier waiting for next time. The roller is again preserved in its orignial sandwhich bag.....dunno if it will last till the next session, though. Need to experiment on how long the roller will stay soft!
(ps - I use this method when painting with emulsion too...)
Em
x
**If you haven't got an ice cream tub, go and buy some tesco vanilla.....it was actually cheaper than buying a paint kettle, and you get to eat ice-cream!
Posted: 28 Jul 2008, 08:16
by Titus A Duxass
After one session of rolling, get the roller in the sandwhcig bag pronto......
- Cling film also works well for this.
Posted: 28 Jul 2008, 08:21
by ermie571
Yeah, Titus, it does. And if you have neither, so does a carrier bag!
Em
x
Posted: 28 Jul 2008, 08:29
by CovKid
The rollers do have a finite life though. We couldn't get much more than half an hour out of one safely without risking getting debris in the finish from a gradual breakdown of the foam itself. This might vary from make to make of course but the roller also loses its firmness too after a while, which ultimately has an effect on the finish.
I applaud the environmental considerations and clearly there is some merit in reusing what you can but the fact you're not atomising paint all over the neighbourhood and local wildlife is still one thing greatly in favour of the roller method. Certainly what you don't want to be doing is wahing stuff out as that then needs disposing of somewhere and i'd much rather dispose of a congealed/dried roller and tray than the alternatives.
However, if you use a roller that has become clogged and lost its 'bounce', you're going to be reminded of those environmental efforts in the finish you get which is why I still think it makes better sense to start with a new roller and tray for each session and change roller heads after 30 mins. Since you're trying to produce a finish that is at least acceptable, you don't want to compromise those efforts by being over-zealous in resusing materials. You can certainly reuse the tray overnight by storing in a plastic bag or cling film but I would definately start with a fresh roller head. If you've ever had one break up on you, you will know the mess that can present you with.
