Club 80-90 Forums

R0B wrote:My 2.1 injection goes like stink.And has never randomly cut out.

there is no injection nonsense!

As does the 2.1 MV in my syncro, but I'm currently sat awaiting the AA in the camper cos all it will do is click (every now and then)

You've probably lost a bit of voltage somewhere in the starter wiring, Tom. Corroded terminal on trigger wire (in which case a screwdriver across the solenoid terminals will start it), bad earth on gearbox, bad connection between starter body and bellhousing, or worn bush in BH. It's rarely the starter motor itself. And it's kin ages since I did that job, is it doing it on LPG or petrol?

Tsk - spotted an oil leak. And in the worst possible place - it's gathering where the engine meets the bellhousing, pretty sure it's engine oil. So I guess that tells me that the wear line in the flywheel was too big to get away with after all, and I should have sleeved it like Itchyfeet did. I don't really want to think about the possibility of it being the joint between the two engine case halves. I'll get under there for a better look at the weekend, since it may be coming from somewhere else like a pushrod tube, but if it's that main seal then unfortunately I believe it's a gearbox-out job to fix it. That was straightforward while the engine was out, but with the engine in place I won't be able to use the boat winch method on the gearbox, so it'll mean messing about balancing the gearbox on a trolley jack I think.

I recall reading from Covkid that it's possible to change a clutch without dropping the gearbox - just by shoving the gearbox back while it's still connected to the driveshafts. If there's room to get a clutch out, I wonder if there's also room to get a flywheel off. And would there be enough working room to swap the crankshaft seal as well (it may not need it, but I wouldn't want to keep doing this job)?

Since it's taken over 1000 miles for the first drops to appear I'm hoping it's a slow leak so I don't need to rush to fix it.

On the plus side, I hammered up and down the M1 last weekend (down then up to be correct), 300 mile round trip, and I averaged a fraction under 27mpg. The long 50mpg roadworks sections will have helped, but the nose-to-tail crawling in London and on the M25 won't have, but whatever, I didn't hang about on the M1 and that's a personal best in this van. Maybe this LT carb isn't running so rich after all. Will know after the rolling road session at the end of October.

Had same on my tin top had to swap flywheel for another, it's not so bad dropping the gearbox, done it quite a few times now and can do it in about an hour, another hour to replace.
piece of wood between suspension and ratchet straps around gearbox is my method.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8153955" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=140047" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the links. I remembered reading them but that saves me finding them again. One more for the set - your post on actually fitting the sleeve: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 4#p8162794" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This was a secondhand flywheel, which I'd cleaned up and then had the friction surface and the clutch mounting rim refaced. It did have a visible wear ring from the old seal, but I naively hoped it would be ok. So I've got the flywheel that came off with my DG, and will have that resurfaced as well. I think it has a similar wear line, so I'll have a go with a sleeve in advance, so that I've got a flywheel ready to go straight back in when I decide to pull the gearbox. Did you ever find out the alternative manufacturer for the sleeve?

 Did you ever find out the alternative manufacturer for the sleeve?

No, but not worth the risk imo, you know the speedisleeve will be good quality.

I did manage ro use a flywheel with a big worn groove on the tin top because it was offset and so I placed the seal carefully to miss, if the groove is in the middle forget it.

if using another flywheel don't forget to check the end float again, by the way what is the current thinking on reusing the flywheel bolts?, I will have to speedisleeve mine soon as I need to remove the gearbox to check the clutch release bearing, something is causing the clutch pedal to flutter when fully released, vibrate when light pressure applied, but its fine when the pedal is pushed to half way.

There aretwo torque settings
one is stretch in Haynes
the other is to a set torque in Bentley
IMO if you do the Bentley setting then reuse but if you never bought a set worth buying new
I would not reuse if stretched

weimarbus wrote:if using another flywheel don't forget to check the end float again.

Good point - thanks for the reminder.

weimarbus wrote:... by the way what is the current thinking on reusing the flywheel bolts?...

Bentley shows both settings in the exploded diagram - 60Nm plus an additional quarter turn, or 110Nm - but only states the 60Nm+1/4 turn in the text. The 'plus an additional quarter turn' suggests a degree of stretch, and therefore it could be unwise to reuse them. And 110Nm is a lot more that 60Nm, so it seems possible that that already takes you into stretch territory maybe. But when I did mine up to 110Nm they didn't 'feel', to my untrained hands, quite the same as the con rod stretch bolts. I did replace them when I had to go back in for the felt o-ring, but that's largely because I had spares, having bought a bag of 10 slightly longer bolts from an ebay supplier. It did seem a bit frivolous, since I remember thinking that they didn't feel tight enough to have stretched. I'll probably re-use the current set the next time.

iv'e only used the Haynes manual and the bolts were new when I built the MV so they would have been stretched, I'd best buy new again. Thanks for the replies.

ajsimmo wrote:You've probably lost a bit of voltage somewhere in the starter wiring, Tom. Corroded terminal on trigger wire (in which case a screwdriver across the solenoid terminals will start it), bad earth on gearbox, bad connection between starter body and bellhousing, or worn bush in BH. It's rarely the starter motor itself. And it's kin ages since I did that job, is it doing it on LPG or petrol?

AA man deduced it down to being the wire between the starter and the black box, so we got the van to start by using his jump pack to power the vans circuitry while the starter battery kicked the engine over first hit. Will have a look through it all soon, but the van still gets barely any use so it's likely down to degeneration that way.

Wasn't pointing the finger at you for current (no pun) problems though! Conversion is a beaut!

weimarbus wrote:if using another flywheel don't forget to check the end float again

The flywheel on my DG has a similar wear groove, so will need sleeving before it's re-used. So I've ordered two speedi-sleeves. I'll do the DG flywheel first, so that I know what I'm doing ahead of time, but then to avoid the hassle of measuring and setting the end float again underneath the van I'll aim to remove the current flywheel, sleeve it, and then re-fit it all in one go.

Since the gearbox doesn't need to come out from under the van, I'm thinking I'll support the flywheel end of the engine with the boat winch, and support the gearbox on a trolley jack or two, so that I can just extract it far enough to get at the flywheel, and then either tie it or prop it up for the duration. I might save myself the difficulty of getting the gearbox off and back onto the trolley jack single-handed.

Dont just use my cutting measurement yours may have a different depth to fillet rad.
if it stick out at all it will shred your shims need it underflush

itchyfeet wrote:... need it underflush

Under flush was what I was going to aim for. Did you find that the cut edge was a risk to the seal edge? Did you smooth/chamfer it once it was installed, or did the Dirko cover the edge?

It peeled off ok I didn't try and dress it
sliced my finger they are sharp