Club 80-90 Forums

Stesaw wrote:Cjh did a kit a good looking kit a few years back and if I recall it cost about 40 quid.

ZsZ wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 09:38

Splurt wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 09:22 Brilliant! Will be interesting to see if they would be willing to share the design with the right person (looking at you Cobblers!) so they can be produced over this side of the pond.  Hopefully they don't have a purely commercial interest for the future

All of these repair kits are in the same price range wherever they made. Looks like this is the amount that the "people of the developed countries" willing to pay. So I think it wont be cheaper.

AngeloEvs wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 16:33  

ZsZ wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 09:38

Splurt wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 09:22 Brilliant! Will be interesting to see if they would be willing to share the design with the right person (looking at you Cobblers!) so they can be produced over this side of the pond.  Hopefully they don't have a purely commercial interest for the future

All of these repair kits are in the same price range wherever they made. Looks like this is the amount that the "people of the developed countries" willing to pay. So I think it wont be cheaper.

No they are not,  I carry out repairs and PCB conversions, including instruments, clock, damaged casings and modifications for lot less than other kits.   Regulator and LED's are all socket based too and all fixing screws are converted to M4 threaded studes or bolts.    Replacing the pcb is only one aspect of the instrument POD that requires attention.

AngeloEvs wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 16:33  

No they are not,  I carry out repairs and PCB conversions, including instruments, clock, damaged casings and modifications for lot less than other kits.   Regulator and LED's are all socket based too and all fixing screws are converted to M4 threaded studes or bolts.    Replacing the pcb is only one aspect of the instrument POD that requires attention.

CJH wrote: ↑13 Jun 2018, 22:37 Agreed - they need to be bright enough to see, but not too bright to compromise your vision in the dark. I tried these bulbs in the dark this evening, and they seem fine. They're 3.0-3.4V, 20mA (max 30mA), so the standard 470 ohm resistor is ideal. The dimmable 12V LEDs I showed earlier dim to almost nothing on the dimmer minimum setting - too dim in fact - whereas these 10mm LEDs have a smaller range of brightness. The ones I've bought are closer to a 'cool' white, which looks fine, but for personal preference I might look out for some 'warm' white versions. The nice thing is they're dirt cheap, and come in a wide range of colours.

I've ordered a dozen bulb holders in SLS nylon, having very slightly reduced the hole (to 9.8mm) so that the LEDs are a very tight fit. Here's my final design. The light pattern is no different from what I get with the 12V LEDs in the original holders.