Club 80-90 Forums

Cjh did a kit a good looking kit a few years back and if I recall it cost about 40 quid.

Stesaw wrote:Cjh did a kit a good looking kit a few years back and if I recall it cost about 40 quid.

It was £30 for a solder at home kit- mine is going well and I'm very glad I got one before they disappeared. Came with a manual and very comprehensive parts and instructions. It looked like it would have some future too, until something happened and put a stop to it

If I had my van when he was selling em I'd have snapped one up at that price. Not afraid to do some soldering.

 

ZsZ wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 09:38

Splurt wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 09:22 Brilliant! Will be interesting to see if they would be willing to share the design with the right person (looking at you Cobblers!) so they can be produced over this side of the pond.  Hopefully they don't have a purely commercial interest for the future

All of these repair kits are in the same price range wherever they made. Looks like this is the amount that the "people of the developed countries" willing to pay. So I think it wont be cheaper.

No they are not,  I carry out repairs and PCB conversions, including instruments, clock, damaged casings and modifications for lot less than other kits.   Regulator and LED's are all socket based too and all fixing screws are converted to M4 threaded studes or bolts.    Replacing the pcb is only one aspect of the instrument POD that requires attention.

AngeloEvs wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 16:33  

ZsZ wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 09:38

Splurt wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 09:22 Brilliant! Will be interesting to see if they would be willing to share the design with the right person (looking at you Cobblers!) so they can be produced over this side of the pond.  Hopefully they don't have a purely commercial interest for the future

All of these repair kits are in the same price range wherever they made. Looks like this is the amount that the "people of the developed countries" willing to pay. So I think it wont be cheaper.

No they are not,  I carry out repairs and PCB conversions, including instruments, clock, damaged casings and modifications for lot less than other kits.   Regulator and LED's are all socket based too and all fixing screws are converted to M4 threaded studes or bolts.    Replacing the pcb is only one aspect of the instrument POD that requires attention.

I was not aware your work. But all the traders sell the kits for the price I mentioned.

AngeloEvs wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 16:33  

No they are not,  I carry out repairs and PCB conversions, including instruments, clock, damaged casings and modifications for lot less than other kits.   Regulator and LED's are all socket based too and all fixing screws are converted to M4 threaded studes or bolts.    Replacing the pcb is only one aspect of the instrument POD that requires attention.

Yep - I have one of these repair / conversion set ups.
Cost a fraction of the usual suppliers, but works perfectly fine.

Also made to my own criteria which was a late (87) wiring layout fitted to an early (83) cluster.

Job is a good 'un and excellent value.
All I did was change the illumination LEDs to my own preferred colour.






Highly recommended

Here is mine 
https://www.slowbridgeinnovation.com/shop-1

Hi All,

I'm running a 1990 wbx originally however it's now with a 2.0 GTi in it. But the tacho's not working. I'm wordering which would be the best PCB replacement for myself ?

Thank
Sam

Why do you think you need to replace the original pcb?

I am assuming that it is either the green rpm wire that is not connected properly somewhere between the tacho connector and the rpm output in the engine bay,

Or the tacho signal is the wrong voltage.

If it is an ecu based tacho pulse, then this may probably be 5 volts,
Whereas, early / basic tacho signals direct from the coil pin 1 are often 12 volts.

Therefore a 5 volt signal may not be enough to drive a 12 volt tachometer

If the tacho signal worked on the previous engine prior to removal, then the pcb foil should not be at fault.