Club 80-90 Forums

If it makes it easier you can probably get a temperature sender that fits into the sump plug hole, another alternative

itchyfeet wrote:

937carrera wrote:If it makes it easier you can probably get a temperature sender that fits into the sump plug hole, another alternative

Aye, I saw them, didn't fancy it sticking down below the sump.
I briefly considered drilling into the side of the sump but couldn't bring myself to do it.

bigbadbob76 wrote:
Aye, I saw them, didn't fancy it sticking down below the sump.

Nothing to worry about really. Generally only another 8mm or so protrusion, and with the ground clearance on a WBX it makes next to no difference. I am using one on a car with about 90mm ground clearance. Entirely your call of course.

I have a habit of driving up forestry tracks to find a nice spot for the night so didn't want to risk damaging it.
Syncro bash plates needed maybe. haha..

bigbadbob76 wrote:I have a habit of driving up forestry tracks to find a nice spot for the night

Oh the joys of youth

hahahaha....

I was studying my wiring diagrams today and found a spare wire from the black junction box in the engine bay to the fuse box.
It's red/black and connects to the starter solenoid wire in the fuse box and to nothing in the engine bay.
dunno what it was for but not used in the DG so It's ripe for re-purposing for a sender.

I feel a bit daft asking this but is it the one in current track 6, marked T7a6 ? That only seems to be live when the starter is being operated, according to the wiring diagram on syncroandys site

Yeah. Thats the one. It goes nowhere.


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bigbadbob76 wrote: I briefly considered drilling into the side of the sump but couldn't bring myself to do it.

no where suitable, metal is not thick enough
Trust me I measured as I was going to do that

https://www.variohm.com/pressuresensors ... =EPTTE1400

How about a combined pressure / temperature sender, available with 6 bar range, operating temp -50 to 150 deg C, details of the electrical response in the datasheet.

Put this in place of the low switch, feed your gauges direct and have a simple bit of electronics to provide another feed for the idiot light (or even DOPS functionality as well).

The only issues I can see is that the thread is M8 x 1, so you would need to use an M10 x 1 adapter, and perhaps price

That looks like a handy sensor. Might be pricey though as you say.

Cheers for the comment on drilling the sump Paul. Glad I didn't if it's too thin.

I dug out my old 1980's SP automotive meter today, it still works and has some handy features so I ordered a thermocouple for it.
Reckon it'll be handy for the van though i've not used it in years as it's not needed for modern engines.




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I did a rev rev counter calibration tonight so I'm happy with that now.
Also got my thermocouple today so checked it in boiling water and it reads 98*C so a degree or so low.
Time for an oil pressure check.







And at idle 80*C





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Those numbers look remarkably similar to my final tests with oil at 80 degrees.

Maybe my engine isn't too bad after all

looks like wbxlog before I changed pump and oil grade

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8172289" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 0#p8212502" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and after

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 0#p8215003" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

what pump and oil do you have I can't remember?

I have a Shadek 22mm (I think) pump, or is it 26mm? and 15W40 mineral.
I have a gallon of 15W50 waiting to go in when my sandwich plate arrives.
At least I have reference readings now.