Club 80-90 Forums

Something tencentlife said that atuck in my memory...its on this thread

never really understood why as I thought new were flat, I will ask on the fb wbx group

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=156409" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You'll need new lifters too, of course, or have yours reground if they were working well, they'll ned to be claeaned and prefilled afterward but that should be done in any event, even with new ones. Regrinding lifters is fine, any decent machine shop can do it, there's no magic VW spell to recite.

Lifter faces can be reground very easily, to a domed profile. Here a machinist will charge $3 apiece.

itchyfeet wrote:

Lifter faces can be reground very easily, to a domed profile. Here a machinist will charge $3 apiece.

"Domed"? Does that imply that only the centre touches the cam? When you said concave I assumed you meant that the edges touch, which I could understand since that would tend to rotate the lifter. But with a nice new cam and new lifters, I would have thought that a flat surface, giving full contact, ought to be better. It will still tend to drive the lifter around since the cam lobe is off-centre. Of course, that assumes that the cam lobes are ground flat - I'll check with Silverbullet.

Yes I red domed as concave, perhaps new are very slightly convex?

I can't detect any curvature at all. I'll be interested to hear what the explanation is if you get any feedback.

So my engine is stripped and ready, and the van is up on ramps ready to drop it. Just need to pop out to B&Q for some suitable wood to support the winch.

One question - the oil filler tube is still on, and obviously it's likely to get damaged so I want to remove it. One of the nuts seems inaccessible because of the alloy engine support. And the bottom engine support bolt is inaccessible due to the cross member. So as far as I can see I need to support the engine, then separate and remove both bits of the engine support. There's always more to a job than you'd think. Still, at least the cross member nuts have all shifted without snapping the bolts.

cant slide engine off gearbox with oil fillef tube on, it has to come off but you will have the engine supported just before you remove engine bar so remove it then, don't forget to drain oil first.

March Mansi has replied

They are meant to be convex, roughly 0.001 inch higher in middle

One thou, or 0.025mm - that's not a lot, and would be hard to detect by eye I think. I'll take another look (later, when the engine's out). Did he say why?

It's out! That's the point of no return.

The pallet-trolley was perfect.



The hoist worked well too, once I'd unwound all the cable and wound it up again as neatly as I could.



I'm already looking forward to cleaning and stripping the DG - life just won't be the same without an engine on a stand in my utility room.

Just been reading on fb wbx you need to run in followers at 2500 rpm for 20 mins to harden surface and bed to cam.

my winch has a strap rather than a cable

itchyfeet wrote:One of you two should email Brickwerks about it.

Actually, when working on a clean engine on a stand, that's not dribbling oil, and that's at a comfortable working height, the kit works fine. I've managed to find a setup that seems to clear everything (the exhaust especially), isn't trapped by the pushrod shroud, and should put the sender in a convenient location that's hopefully not blocked by water pipes.

I suspect each kit will be slightly different, unless the manufacturers have been rigorous about the relative orientation of the fittings when they've been crimped on. But for my particular copy, this setup seems to work without any nasty kinks in the pipe.

You've got that routed wrong, the banjo has to be routed between the tubes and the head which is quite tricky but it does just fit. I think you'll need pics, I can email them to you if you like but posting them on here - I've always struggled with my Ipad as it's getting on in years.

what2do wrote:You've got that routed wrong, the banjo has to be routed between the tubes and the head which is quite tricky but it does just fit. I think you'll need pics, I can email them to you if you like but posting them on here - I've always struggled with my Ipad as it's getting on in years.

Yes, I saw that on the BW page of fitting instructions. But I'm not sure it would fit behind the SCAT tubes - I could remove those two tubes to get it in, but it would definitely be pinched. And also I prefer the shallower angle that the pipe exits the tube shroud this way.

BW photo:

With my new engine mostly assembled, and the necessary bits now removed from my DG, I've finally been able to do a trial fit of the oil cooler sandwich plate. I'd tried to do this from under the van, but the fit was just too tight and awkward to make it work.

I've opted for a separate remote cooler, rather than the standard 2.1 intercooler, because my early cooling system doesn't have the right pipework to connect up to the factory intercooler. It was a case of having to modify one thing or the other, and I chose the external cooler option.

On the stand, it works nicely now. There's only one orientation that the sandwich plate will fit and allow the pipes to exit without fouling anything. I used 135 degree couplings so that the pipes exit in the right direction.

It's tight, but it fits - that's a relief.

CJH wrote: "Domed"? Does that imply that only the centre touches the cam? When you said concave I assumed you meant that the edges touch, which I could understand since that would tend to rotate the lifter. But with a nice new cam and new lifters, I would have thought that a flat surface, giving full contact, ought to be better. It will still tend to drive the lifter around since the cam lobe is off-centre. Of course, that assumes that the cam lobes are ground flat - I'll check with Silverbullet.

I found this description of why lifters are domed (from this website):

.

I didn't notice any taper on the cam lobes on the cam I bought from Silverbullet, but then 0.001" would be too small to notice without measuring. I'm investigating, but certainly the figures above illustrate why a small dome is required.

Well I have it on reliable authority that my cam does not have tapered lobes, so flat tappets will be "absolutely fine". I suppose it's just the fact that the lobes are off-centre with respect to the tappets that drives them around in the bores. That's good - one less thing to worry about.