Club 80-90 Forums

Is the valve timing correct though ?

i belive it is

Sounds like garage o'clock then ... make sure they know where the bonnet release is

Ian

Hold on
No 3 and 4 is a classic misfire if the brake servo hose is leaking air..
has this been checked?

mine looked ok but upon taking it off and filling the hose with water it was a good sprinkler

you lot are up late
mm

metalmick8y wrote:you lot are up late
mm

Some of us have been out playing with skis all day,

Right, now its time to look at the timing (Ha Ha)

Do you have access to a neon/krypton stroboscopic lamp, or a timing strobe, whichever is easier

What is the ignition set up, ie do you have a SVDA distributor (with one outlet on the vacuum canister, the flying saucer thing on the front of the distributor,), if not what

You will have to invest in some vacuum hose (4mm) and fuel hose, petrol pipe clamps and an in line filter.

Let us know and we can all go further together.......


Cordialement,

ordered timing light should be here tomorrow afternoon

made a vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... c-PdOq4YXY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
also checked timing today 8dg before tdc then when reving it drops to about 23deg is this ok?

Hello,

A good video, clear, and a good demo.

Right , you have several issues here,

You have the distributor ( a hall effect model) according to the 2 spigots on the vacuum can, (pretty colour)

But the rear has been blanked off.

You have got the amplifier and heat sink, but I can't see the ignition stabiliser.

You seem to have funky rubber tubes going into the carb air cleaner pancakes, but where does the crankcase breather go.

A photo of the inside of the distributor would help.

I did mention that a new svda dizzy costs less than a hall sensor.

As this seems to be set up, you will have timing issues, because there is a particular procedure AFTER tdc on Hall effect ignitions.

Dont worry, the solution will not be dear.

Full marks for clean and shiney

Dont forget to get some rubber hats for the spark plugs. tinware must be airtight for cool running

These little videos may help:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qayyc9Z4E0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsfo5ATg ... re=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cordialement,

sarran1955 wrote: You have the distributor ( a hall effect model) according to the 2 spigots on the vacuum can, (pretty colour)

But the rear has been blanked off.

It may be a 2.1 dizzy which with that spigot blanked off is the same as a 1.9 dizzy, that outlet goes to something on the injection system.

thanks again for the info to clear up
"funky rubber tubes" are the LPG pipes
crank case breather are little breather filters will this affect anything?
"ignition stabiliser" what is it where should it be?
and distributor being blanked where should it go?

Just looking at your vac pipes to the dizzy, they look to be on wrong, with both pipes connected through a T piece to the advance side of the can. On a CU the pipe that comes from the idle circuit should go to the retard side of the dizzy diaphragm, which should retard the timing to 5 deg ATDC, and will bring the tickover down. The vac pipe from left carb should go straight onto the advance side of the can, so when you open the throttle it overcomes the vacuum from the idle circuit, quickly advancing the timing for punchy acceleration.
This might be the cause of your trouble as it may not have been correctly timed (although you said it was at 8deg BTDC which would be about right with vac pipes disconnected and blocked off), but I doubt it's enough to cause a serious misfire on only one cylinder.
I'd be looking again at the valves. As said, it's possible to get a reasonable compression test with a valve stuck shut, which could be a dodgy hydraulic tappet??? Drop the rocker cover off that side, start it up (just for a few seconds) and watch those rocker arms. Compare the travel with No4. Do they look the same?

Helo,

Good photos, better than a thousand words.

Right, as I said you've got issues here.

The funky rubber pipes are the black ones going into the spigot on the underside of the pancake air filters

What do these do.

You have a lashed up hall system, with seemingly little or no vacuum advance or retard.

Sort of an 009 less 009

We won't discuss the plastic aircleaner to carb plastic tubes.

Redo the valve timing as described on 14 02 .

Then if you are sure all is well,

The simplest answer will be to take all the hall ignition clat off and fit a new SVDA distributor, with appropriate coil.

About 200€ for oe quality, chinese knock offs are ok at 100 € ., but you know Bosch is best

I'll guide you through the steps.

Have you watched the videos


Cordialement,

the rubber hose are for the lpg feed in
i have no breather hoses would this be a issue? also would it benifit me to upgrade my distributor anyway?
if i do what coil would i need ? (just bought new bosh one)

Hello,

OK, just had another look at the photos.

Just so we are not talking at x purposes, has this engine ever run properly for you??

I take it there are a pair of Solex pict 32/32 pdsit carbs, under the chromium pancakes

Has the ( nicelypainted) metal balance tube got really good condition rubbers on with no kinks.

Why have you got an enormous throttle return spring, do you have idling problems.

What state is your throttle cable in....freely running, lightly greased,

or a worn out wire in a rust choked tube

I've just been looking on * bay, and there are copy bosch svda distributors from about £50.

The only real solution will be to fit a SVDA dizzy and retime the engine,

But before we do that I want to be sure that the valve timing is right.

Where is the vacuum feed for the dizzy, (either on the balance pipe or on the left hand (master ) carb.

Don't worry we'll get there

Cordialement,