Club 80-90 Forums

Also keep in mind that you may have multiple problems on your FI system. Last year I bought one as a spare from someone who opted for carburettors. Found a number of problems. The wrong injectors (new) were fitted with an increased flow rate. Two of the hoses that connect the input air distributor to the manifolds were cracked all the way through. This only became apparent after I took it apart as it was hidden from view. The cover at the bottom of the throttle body was missing. The butterfly valve spindle rests on this cover and with it missing the plate wore into the body to the point where it would not fully close. No hope at all of ever getting the engine to idle. The AFM cover was also missing and the inside resembled something like a bird's nest. The fuel lines were so old that they resembled sticks of wood.

With increased fuel flow rate, unmetered air entering the system, AFM not functioning and the throttle body valve unable to close fully it was not unreasonable to expect the FI system not to work properly.

I replaced the hoses and fuel lines, repaired the throttle body with J-B Weld and improvised a cover. To my surprise even the AFM tested OK after a thorough cleaning. Replaced my working system and the engine started first time with only the idle speed needing adjustment.

DO NOT GIVE UP, this was the bargain of my lifetime. With it and my working spare system it sure is going to outlast me.

Have swapped TCI unit & have found some old/good injectors with seals, not fitted yet though.

icosahedron wrote:DO NOT GIVE UP, this was the bargain of my lifetime. With it and my working spare system it sure is going to outlast me.

Can I inherit it?

Okay, Old/new injectors (with seals) fitted. No difference,
ECU swapped, no difference.
Coil cleaned up/connections checked again......... Its starts!!



Not running right though (exhaust blowing mind) when cold, if I blip the throttle it stalls, as it warms this gets better but if I rev it to say 3000rpm as it drops back down it pauses at 1500rpm before slowly going on down to 800rpm. Ideas?

There is also some sort of whine from bellhousing, maybe something wrong with clutch assembly, press clutch peddle no difference in noise. Ideas?

Karl, the last thing you touched was the coil and suddenly it runs...check every crimped connection in the TCI plug with a multimeter and take an eye glass to the distributor plug too. That's what's had my 2.6 stuck on the drive all this time, high resistance internally corroded joints that would let it start and idle but the spark was failing under any sort of load, I guess because the trigger signal was getting "blurred" as the rpm increased. It wouldn't stand a throttle blip either, this would cause it to stall.

Okay.....non-starter again this morning!

i'm thinking coil or coil connections now, after reading up about the green/grey labels in Haynes. (doesn't say what the DJ should have though???)
I always thought a coil was a coil was a coil. But it appears not. PO (or more likely garage) has fitted a 'orrible Interfactor coil (cheap looking thing).
Is this enough not to start?

If it's the wrong resistance for the TCI then it may get grumpy with the incorrect load. I reckon you've got a dry joint somewhere (and I don't mean the kind)

also the polarity of the coil wiring is critical, (dont ask how i know this) so make sure the wires are the right way round,

neil

Nothing like a reversed coil for a nice weak spark eh, Neil?

A dry joint? Do you mean poor connection?
Anyone know what spec (label) the DJ should have?
Neil, do tell.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=333954" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


mark

coil is a year thing and it makes no sense frankly, they used a golf one for ages then a T3 one then went back to the golf one, or was it the other way around I can't be bothered looking it up, and no other parts were changed at the same time and the tci didn't change so I reckon either will do as long as they are the real thing

KarlT wrote:A dry joint? Do you mean poor connection?
Anyone know what spec (label) the DJ should have?
Neil, do tell.

Yep, high resistance in the crimp or an internal partial break in a wire (if down to a few strands the resistance will also be increased) That's why a continuity test with a multimeter is the only way, wire by wire. Bloody tedious but you'll find the fault in the end.
Unless the coil is at fault? Go back to the last good set of conditions. Damp can hide a high-resistance crimp until it warms up and dries out, as I found in the lpg wiring but that's all fixed now...

Just a thought.......

Haven't got round to switching in a new/good coil but was thinking about the injectors. While they are pumping petrol, How do I know they aren't wired the wrong way round, injecting at the wrong time? Different wire colours to certain cylinders?

all 4 injectors squirt at the same time, it's not a sequential system, ecu flashes them to earth to squirt