Club 80-90 Forums

Hello,

Drop engine in an afternoon., if you plus gas the nuts and bolts, need good trolly jack and 3 axle stands. 1 goes under the gearbox.

Engine complete onto a work bench, need engine hoist or 3 big people (with gloves)

Remove and clean tinware. ( a coat of hammerite would be nice.) 2 hrs.

Remove exhaust and heat exchangers (plus gas first) 2 hrs.

Remove cylinder head rhs, remove valves,( need correct tool, or home made) 2 hrs.

Clean and grind in valves. 2 hrs.

reassemble head 1 hr.

refit head and pushrod seals and valve gear. Set valve clearences, (need feeler gauge) 1 1/2 hrs.

repeat for lhs.

Build up motor with shiny tinware and hex head screws. afternoon.

refit motor (take your time, say 3 hrs.

Need gasket set, grinding paste, and a dob stick, the lot about £35.

Do a compression check first. Cold and hot.

Doing my clutch and crankcase oil seal this week end. I'll try and film it if I can.

Cordialement,

a film would be wondrous -
to actually see ow its done - always makes more sense

jason k wrote:dont fanny around, drop it, its much easier

just to clarify the wd40 is being blown away at idle?

your not revving it at all?

Hi jason, it swhen I rev it i think, i will try again tomrrow to confirn.

Hello,

Well I've been having fun today

Timings much as predicted, started at 10 ish,

Engine dropped,installed on bench, stripped to cylinder head, head off, changed pushrod tubes, stitched back together by 6 pm, (with lunch and tea break).

Tomorrow, clutch and flywheel off, crankase oil seal to change, rebuild and re install.

I've been videoing all this, so it'll show you whats what.

I'll post as soon as....

I havn't had to grind in any valves...

..... so I suppose that means another video


Cordialement,

sarran1955 wrote:Hello,

Well I've been having fun today

Timings much as predicted, started at 10 ish,

Engine dropped,installed on bench, stripped to cylinder head, head off, changed pushrod tubes, stitched back together by 6 pm, (with lunch and tea break).

Tomorrow, clutch and flywheel off, crankase oil seal to change, rebuild and re install.

I've been videoing all this, so it'll show you whats what.

I'll post as soon as....

I havn't had to grind in any valves...

..... so I suppose that means another video


Cordialement,

You make it all sound so easy! Looking forward to video.

I have been away for a few days but will get another look at the bus soon.

john

Hi Folks

Good news I think,

Compression tests done, 1/120psi. 2/ 120psi, 3/120psi, 4/125psi. Now the gauge doesn't hold the compression but my mate turn over and it fluctuated around those numbers then falls as he stops turning it over. Normal??

Im still trying to find the rubber elbow and rubber T at servo. Can anyone point me to where I can get them? I think Kev said best change them anyway so thats next. Could these rubbers collapse under vac and would this cause the poor running? Just an idea guys.

Anyway I will store the rope for another day.

Thanks all once again for your help on this.

John

OK
were those values the maximum psi noted when cranking on a hot engine?

was this method followed...
* Make sure the engine has been warmed up before beginning the test, to ensure that the oil has been warmed up. A cold engine will not test correctly.
* Disable the ignition module or coil.
* Insert the compression tester into one cylinder spark plug hole at a time.
* Hold the throttle to full open position to ensure the engine gets adequate air intake.
* Crank the engine continually for at least five to 10 full revolutions to obtain an accurate reading on the compression tester.
* Record the reading for each cylinder. If any of them vary 10 percent or more from each other a problem may exist in one or more cylinders.

Did you do a wet compression test?

plus do the wd test at idle.

no revving

kevtherev wrote:OK
were those values the maximum psi noted when cranking on a hot engine?

was this method followed...
* Make sure the engine has been warmed up before beginning the test, to ensure that the oil has been warmed up. A cold engine will not test correctly.
* Disable the ignition module or coil.
* Insert the compression tester into one cylinder spark plug hole at a time.
* Hold the throttle to full open position to ensure the engine gets adequate air intake.
* Crank the engine continually for at least five to 10 full revolutions to obtain an accurate reading on the compression tester.
* Record the reading for each cylinder. If any of them vary 10 percent or more from each other a problem may exist in one or more cylinders.

Did you do a wet compression test?

Ahh!! no engine cold!!!!!!!!!!!!
Coil disable yes.
1 cylinder at a time yes.
I didn't hold the throttle open!!!!!!
It did crank for 5.

What is a wet compression test Kev?

Sorry guys

I will do it again!

I will look the rope back out eh!

john

jason k wrote:plus do the wd test at idle.

no revving

Jason I just went out and done it at idle.

It looks like it bubbles back a wee bit on the left bank inlet manafold at 1 spot.

Where is the pain killers!!!!



Thanks

john

Hi Guys

in me search for vac pipes i found this but cant find the elbow joint next to the right hand carb.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-T25-vans-1980- ... 4583179976" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Im still planning new comp tests but going to change these anyway, any help finding other side would be apppreciated.

john

http://www.justkampers.com/shop/inlet-m ... 10848.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good Afternoon Folks

Final got time to do the test again.

Warm up.
1 plug out at a time and tested in turn, tested as Kev said.

Again fluctuated around these numbers then falls as he stops turning it over.
1/ 120,,2/120..3/110 to 120,,,4/120
How do theses numbers stack up?

I have oredered the inlet manifold rubbers, the T piece one seems to squash up when running??


Thanks again for help Guys,

john

if the t piece is squashing up i suspect its taking in air hence your popping.

compressions all seem ok to me.

jason k wrote:if the t piece is squashing up i suspect its taking in air hence your popping.

compressions all seem ok to me.

Thanks Jason, i think its time to let someone with more savy than me take a look.

I will let you guys know when i get to the bottom of it.


john