Club 80-90 Forums

Ready to take the belt and tensoiner out...


All done and looking good

Now for some painting and fiting the new water pump..


Gave the block a paint..quite red!!









I clamped her up agin to fit the sprocket and at the same time fitted the pump..

With the help of the hoist I was able to turn her on her end!! Sump time and gasket change..





I took off the sump and here is a sneaky look at the bottom end of the heart...



coverered up so I could clean the sump face..



Cleaned the sump inside and tidied up the face..


Painted the sump...lots of bolts!!!



Left it overnight and fitted it the next morning...used sealant on both sides...



Refitted the Manifold..looks the job!




Fitted the adapter plate..thanks..Aidan/Neil





End of the day look...

I have quite a bit to do...as mentioned earlier I needed to approach the job one step at a time.

Thanks Neil for your photo of the coolant side..I think I know what you have done! I plan to draw a schematic of what I have interpreted from your description and I will post it..I am one of those learneres that needs a picture/photo of the connections and I can then link the two. (Decription/photo). Once I have got a grasp of it, I will get the new water pipes manufactured.

Answering Jed's question..if the valence is not to be cut..Water Pump...The (Petrol) gearbox mount can have two holes drilled in it so that it is allowed to go back towards the front of the van...To compensate for the shift...the gear linkage (rod to the gearbox) would have to be modified by drilling a new hole for the gear shifter (the same distance as the holes drilled for the gearbox mount)...approximately 2.5cms..I plan to buy a petrol gearbox mount and shifter...just in case I go down this route...Still early days..and I am considering rear access to the engine for maintenance purposes..

With regard to the electrics...I am not ready to take them on yet..a little reading and working out what does what is a start for me...

I have parts still to order and my Carb needs consideration. I am going to scrap the EDR conections and valve...not sure what steps I need to take to compensate this move..I am on the understanding..by scrapping the EDR set up will help free horsepower...Thanks Neil/Ian.

Keep you posted..enjoy the read

Tom

cheers Tom for some nicely illustated content glad to see it's coming together, good luck with the rest of it

That 3-groove v-belt pulley looks quite deep, if you're not needing PAS or A/C can it be substituted with a shallower one and get an inch or more clearance at the back ?

syncroandy wrote:That 3-groove v-belt pulley looks quite deep, if you're not needing PAS or A/C can it be substituted with a shallower one and get an inch or more clearance at the back ?

Your right in the crankshaft pulley being quite deep..I plan to incorporate PAS at some point in the future. The Water pump on these engines are the issue..

Here is a flick..the Water pump is deeper

How far is the engine going to stick up above the engine lid hole?

jed

while you have the engine on the bench it would be worth replacing the crank seal, along with the seal too the block and the alloy housing that encases the crank seal. if you go to any volvo parts dept and ask for these parts

6842160 crank sealing ring
1378492 gaskit

the 2 parts will cost less than £30 which is well worth changing as they should last another 100.000 miles.

neil

axeman wrote:while you have the engine on the bench it would be worth replacing the crank seal, along with the seal too the block and the alloy housing that encases the crank seal. if you go to any volvo parts dept and ask for these parts

6842160 crank sealing ring
1378492 gaskit

the 2 parts will cost less than £30 which is well worth changing as they should last another 100.000 miles.

neil

Thanks Neil..Probably a good move....

Tom

The water pump sticks out a lot c/w the classic vw one, possibly the engine layout was influenced by the Volvo 240 longitudinal rear-wheel drive layout. VW had transverse I4's from way back so wanted to keep length down hence the waterpump design. Which pulley interferes with the rear crossmember ?

It's the waterpump nose that is rather long. I still think a remote take-off plate needs designing to allow the use of either a remote waterpump (maybe a WBX one on a bracket) or else go the whole hog and fit an electric coolant pump.
Are you going for a raised hatch then Tom?

Sorry if this has been mentioned before...

I take it the engine sits horizontally because you are using the original sump?

I love a good project - keep up the good thread

Ringo

ringo wrote:Sorry if this has been mentioned before...

I take it the engine sits horizontally because you are using the original sump?

I love a good project - keep up the good thread

Ringo

here is a pic of mine early on in the install. it sits at about 20 degrees from vertical from memory, this angle stays the same for all variations of this engine, the sump fits between the syncro (petrol) bash bars so will not be a an issue on a 2wd.



neil

axeman wrote:.

jed the spread wrote:Just a little thought, but will that engine fit under the lid on a 2wd van? The engine sits higher on a 2wd doesn't it? It would be awfull to put in all this effort to find out it sticks out at the top as well as the rear. I know you obiously would have measured it before commiting to this engine but the only two vans I have seen these fitted to are dokas.

Jed

jed the spread wrote:How far is the engine going to stick up above the engine lid hole?

jed

Looking at that picture and add the fact that a 2wd engine sits higher than a Syncro It looks like that engine is going to stick right up into the van I dont know if its just the photo but the top of the engine looks to be miles past the engine hatch panel. Any news on just how far it sticks up yet? and how the R&R bed is going to work? I really hope it isnt going to be as bad as it seems.....

jed