Club 80-90 Forums

Interesting stuff.
Can we get an idea of where 10* BTC is, as I don't have a angle/degree thingy.
Looking at the engine (anyone got a good pic?) can you tell me where to line up the 'V' on the engine casting on tick-over?

original DJ pulley is marked 10 degreesBTDC, replacement ones (and late ones that were delivered timed for unleaded) and ones swapped from MVs or DGs will be marked 5 degrees, relative to tdc which is the half moon mark on the front of the pulley the timing mark is the one closest to the block, you should be able to figure out which one you have fitted and time accordingly

so i take the van for a proper jet service....set to the 10 d'btdc...switch to wazzy fuel.....easy on the go pedal...correct tyre pressures.....tail wind and a poo before we all leave home and i'll have more torque and more mpg....did i miss anything......and this WILL work!!!

Cheers for reply but can I actually check which pulley wheel I have?
Anyone know the mm distance between the 'halfmoon' & 'V' on a DJ?
Also if you had the incorrect pulley can we get a mm measurement from the engine casting split to the 10* mark?

KarlT wrote:Interesting stuff.
Can we get an idea of where 10* BTC is, as I don't have a angle/degree thingy.
Looking at the engine (anyone got a good pic?) can you tell me where to line up the 'V' on the engine casting on tick-over?

I'll get out and get some pics when it stops pi&&ing down in Redruth. I mark my timing marks with Tippex so they show up better on the timing light. Then you use the join of the two halves of the crank case as the datum point and adjust the timing so that the 10 degrees btdc mark on the pulley lines up with it. As Syncrosimon said earlier you then need to adjust the tickover. Haynes gives a clear description as well. Don't forget also that vacuum advance needs to be disconnected and plugged and plugs from the idle stabiliser need disconnecting and plugging together. Also wire from coil needs disconnecting. Again all this is well set out in Haynes which is where I learnt it from.

Hope this helps,

Pete

Cheers for that. Yeah, I know how to set it up but I've always just kinda guessed where 5* BDTC is (playing safe) but abit more accuracy/efficiency would be good.

KINGPRAWN wrote:so i take the van for a proper jet service....set to the 10 d'btdc...switch to wazzy fuel.....easy on the go pedal...correct tyre pressures.....tail wind and a poo before we all leave home and i'll have more torque and more mpg....did i miss anything......and this WILL work!!!

Yeah that will all help ...... in addition to taking stuff off the roof that you dont need .....

syncropaddy wrote:

KINGPRAWN wrote:so i take the van for a proper jet service....set to the 10 d'btdc...switch to wazzy fuel.....easy on the go pedal...correct tyre pressures.....tail wind and a poo before we all leave home and i'll have more torque and more mpg....did i miss anything......and this WILL work!!!

Yeah that will all help ...... in addition to taking stuff off the roof that you dont need .....

hoe'd you know i have stuff on my roof!!!!.......stalker???

right since the start of my interest in this subject , to round it all up i filled with the shell v-power, top man PETENALI set my timing for me which was so far off the mark it wasn't true!. the engine since doing this has been reborn almost as though i have been running on 3 cyls for years...but...my idle when hot is up around 12/1300rpm! the idle control valve didn't seem to be working, so i changed it for another i had. this made a difference but had not sorted the problem..and still dosen't seem to be working although making a difference? from the wanted section mr LETSHAVEBUS had one wich i hope will get to me tomorrow...fingers crossed this sorts it but i have my reservations!!!!!!! still its another step in the right direction. both my valves look identical and are not stuck as if you tap it on your hand you can feel it clunk inside and if 12v is put across the connection it /they go nuts so i guess thet're not dead??? we'll find out tomorrow...............watch this space

The idle valve wont be able to close enough if the bypass on the throttle body is open too much.. worth a check, someone may have opened it up to compensate for a pooly idle valve or other fault..

toomanytoys wrote:The idle valve wont be able to close enough if the bypass on the throttle body is open too much.. worth a check, someone may have opened it up to compensate for a pooly idle valve or other fault..

thanks for your suggestion..but could you explain what that means and how i could check

There is a base setting on the throttle valve via a screw, if you have a look you will see it in the body of the throttle.. might also be worth checking that the switch on there is also operating correctly.. Haynes manual covers this...

toomanytoys wrote:There is a base setting on the throttle valve via a screw, if you have a look you will see it in the body of the throttle.. might also be worth checking that the switch on there is also operating correctly.. Haynes manual covers this...

"lets get to work"..............thank you

Have a sqyint at this thread (from the top)
Might give you some ideas and thoughts..
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=58488" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Get yer Haynes manual at the ready...

Sorry, this is a bit off topic now isnt it...

thanks for your continued thoughts. valve didn't arrive today.. poss tomorrow, so as your thread says checked as much of everything that i could, replaced the little box behind the tailight but still no hum from the valve ! throttle switch output ok!.. w-d'd all connections i could find so its just waiting for the correct valve....here's hoping