Club 80-90 Forums

Or would this be better?

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CovKid wrote:Yep, to monitor both batteries, just look for a switch with three terminals which will lallow you to switch between either (although no off position) - - mines like that and meter consumes so little I leave it on permanently. A two-pole switch will allow you to monitor one battery or switch meter off.

What size fuse should I use when taking a wire direct from the battery positive terminals?

I didn't bother but if you want to fit one it'll be a small milliamp one at most. AngeloEVS will advise possibly. 500mA would be enough I'd have thought.

The lowest current rating you can get or fit in your fuseholder! A 1A or 5A is more easily available and will give you protection against short circuits so don't worry if thats all you can get........

Thanks. Got the meter and switch fitted to the trim. just needs wiring up

Don't forget, theres a tiny adjustment thing in the corner on the back of the LCD meter. If you connect an accurate digital multimeter to batt first, you can then adjust your new volt guage to read the same. You wait till you get it going - you'll be watching it for MONTHS Cruz. It completely changes the way you look at charging, flat batteries and what uses power and essential for split charge systems in my view although just as useful if you only have one battery.

Fitted it today to the starter and leisure battery with a toggle switch.

Only just saw your post Covkid so I have yet to calibrate it but it seems to be reading fairly accurately as it is

Don't you feel better? Takes all the guesswork out of battery status and a cheap, easy to fit modification that works well. All I'm going to see now is rollered vans with voltmeters and Kawasaki exhausts....

Only other mod I can suggest for the voltmeter is to fit a 3-pin plug so you can easily disconnect plug and remove heater cowling in future.

By the way, leaving the light/display on won't make any impression on your battery - doesn't consume enough to worry about it. You could disconnect the meter LED and run another one there from the dash lights if you wanted to but seems alot of work doing that.

If I need to remove the cowling all I need to do is remove the 3 spade connectors from the switch

Already I have been checking the drain when EVERYTHING is on...headlights on full, blower of full, hazards on, wipers on....

Amazing the drop you get sometimes. Try the stereo and crank it up slowly....

To be honest, its more use than half the indicators in the dash pod.

I always run the stereo from the leisure battery even though I have a toggle switch fitted for that too

And for my next project, the emoti-horn, a dashboard switch where you can choose the friendly 'beep' of the T25 or the 'all blaring - I'm damn angry' mode.

Just out of interest what readings do people get at the starter battery with the engine running?

When I start the van in a morning I get around 13.2volts which rises to 13.8volts after about 20 minutes of running. Plus the battery light does not go out until I give the van some revs.

What could cause the alternator to not pump out as much voltage at first? The fanbelt is new and seems tight enough, and a new alternator regulator was fitted in June.

I presume some of it is being soaked up by the battery initially. On a very long run once batts are fully charged, I've seen the display go in excess of 13.8v. I can't help feeling that the charging circuit is a little on the primitive side.

After reading this thread and the Wiki ,I ordered my Voltage gauge from china last night For £6.15 delivered. So soon i will join the ranks of voltage watchers ..oh and Covkid my van is rollered too...now these special horns are they on Wiki yet.. Mark