Club 80-90 Forums

bud wrote:Hi all,

sorry ive not been on in a few days. The engine is all back together, just need to do the valve clearences then hope she starts!!! I'll let you know if it does, got my fingers crossed.

Fingers crossed here too mate, Good luck. Take it steady 'til all settles down. (Sure you know that though).

Why is the engine scrap if a stud snaps.
There is always away to get a snapped stud or bolt out of a hole.
I worked in engineering for years and used to use a spark eroder to remove broken bolts stud and even taps.
Would it not be cheaper to get a local engineering firm to erode it out?
Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to do.

Just wondered

hey windy, i have heard about this, is this when you zap the bolt with some voltage?

Sort of
there a basic explanation at this link http://www.sparkeroding.co.uk/.

I did this for a living for a year or two along with wire eroding which works in the same way.
I removed just about every type of bolt, stud, tap and dowel from anything and everything.

I remember using an "easy out". A sort of reverse thread thing. It snapped Could you have got this out then? I scrapped the head on the advice of my local engineering firm! They said it was (?) hardened steel so impossible to remove!

yep, no problem.Doesn't matter if it's hardened or not

Never use Easy Outs in those situations, for that very reason (even the Wiki says so )

Drilling a normal stud out is quite feasible too, if access allows (engine out if requ'd)
Cobalt or Boron drills make it even easier and aren't too expensive these days, but HSS should do it. You can also get LH drills which 'may' loosen the stud as it's drilled out but never tried that myself, as have drilled (possibly) a hundred out over the years. Shocking can also prove a very useful technique..

But windysurfer has it right, as long as you can find a local enough shop to do it, spark erosion is the business.

See Wiki here for drilling out and a pretty comprehensive synopsis of all methods (theer are many!)

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Te ... bolts/nuts

Good effort Bud, thats what i like to see, the chips are down but the man came through in the end. Good work fella

Yup, a very good result - you never know quite how near a bolt was to loosening when it shears (usually wasn't even feeling any torque down where it matters! )

Well done!

I am just going through the same thing. Two of the studs had snapped and after waiting 5 weeks, the garage finally managed to get all of them out! Now for the re-build.

One question though, I am having trouble (and so are the garage) getting hold of a replacement set of studs (4 small, 4 medium and 8 large). I see VW Heritage are advertising them but they are on back order and I am not sure when these are due back in? Where did you get a replacement set from? Or does anyone else know of where I can get a full set?

Thanks

Steve

swillicott wrote: One question though, I am having trouble (and so are the garage) getting hold of a replacement set of studs (4 small, 4 medium and 8 large) Where did you get a replacement set from? Or does anyone else know of where I can get a full set?

Have you tried the VW dealers - sometimes they are a pleasant surprise !!
Use the "Van Centres" not the normal car dealers.

Also ring Elite Engines, they must know were to get them or might sell you a set.
http://www.elitevw.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

.

Just found a full set on Just Kampers - http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_25 ... eads-parts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yep, justkampers is where i got mine, they seem to be the best place for everything. Have got the van running but the engine seems to vibrate a lot when releasing off the accelerator and a bit on tickover. Why is this? Is it just the valve clearences? Also what are the valve clearences meant to be? Ive read so many different opinions and the haynes manual seems to be way off.

bud wrote:Yep, justkampers is where i got mine, they seem to be the best place for everything. Have got the van running but the engine seems to vibrate a lot when releasing off the accelerator and a bit on tickover. Why is this? Is it just the valve clearences? Also what are the valve clearences meant to be? Ive read so many different opinions and the haynes manual seems to be way off.

Do you mean vibrate or do you mean rocks about a bit ?

Rocking about a bit is usually caused by a miss-fire (that could come about by wrong tappet setting).

Re valve "clearances"
First you need to know if you have hydraulic tappets or not.
O.E. is Hydraulic on most (all ?) T25 flat 4's, but some folks and some engine recon outfits swap them for solid ones.

Hydraulic tappet setting is done when the engine is warmed up.
This site here = http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Suggests adjusting until the adjuster just touches the valve, then 1 1/2 turns in.
(Haynes says 2 turns in after the adjuster has touched the valve).
That site is worth a read if you are interested, though I reckon the double compression testing is a bit ott imho - (note = the pics cause the site to be a bit slow to load)

.