Club 80-90 Forums

Hi

Yes, that's correct I have made adjustments to the tappets!

Try loosening the tappet adjustments so they are only just touching again and see what happens.

OK going to go out and try this after I've eaten. Can't say that I noticed a difference in the cranking speed, but Kate says that she has!

Cheers

Melvin

We have some results not great ones but at least its progress

1 = approx 100
2 = approx 50
3 = approx 80
4 = approx 90

I probably need to repeat this to be certain, but assuming these results are more or less right, could this be fixed with the engine in? It's probably beyond my ability, but if it's a possibilty at least I can now approach someone with a view to getting things sorted.

Thanks again

Melvin

Hi Runner,

Don't know what those results mean....but for the unitiated, what did you do differently to get compression readings....before you were getting nothing??

Congratulations on getting thus far....its all useful info for someone like Laurie if they are to have a bash at fixing the engine.


regards
Em
x

Those reading are quite low, should be somewhere in the region of 130 for a relatively new engine.
100 and 90 will work but below that and I think you may struggle. Cylinder 2 and 3 will be having problems and probably won't fire.
Unfortunatly, putting oil down the cylinder bores through the spark plug hole won't work on these as the oil can't travel around the piston rings to make a better seal because they are vertical! So that idea for finding out if its the rings or valve seats that are playing up by that method won't work!
My guess however, is that it is probably the valve seats that need re-grinding. Had to do this to mine when I first bought it and made a huge difference.
Seems like a cylinder head off jobbie though.

May just be an idea to try starting again now though.

Hi Em

Just did what VWcamperfan said, and backed the tappets off til they were just touching.

The only thing I know for sure about the results I have, is that no. 2 is very low, which surprised me as I thought there was more of problem on the other side - 3 and 4 - after I'd found the plugs dry when the plugs from 1 and 2 were wet with petrol. still, there could be a different reason for that!

While I'm learning more all the time, my knowledge is still very limited. Having some very basic tune up knowledge - mostly gleamed from the idiots guide - I really thought that because the engine turned over and didn't make any horrible noises, that I could get it going

Thanks again to everyone who's helped, every suggestion is very much appreciated.

Melvin

Hi VWamperfan

Thanks for the suggestion, got us a step further

Head off would be engine out? I've seen a series of photos - Hi ya Bluegrass Hippy, if you're reading! - where they peeled back the tinware and did something with the pistons on a 2.0 litre. Looked fiddly but easier than dropping the engine!

Thanks again

Melvin

Just to make sure...

The ignition leads from the dizzy to the engine are as follows.

Start from 1 o'clock on the dizzy. This is to number 2 cylinder (Back right)
Then to 4 o'clock. This is to number 1 cylinder (Front right)
Then to 7 o'clock. This is to number 4 cylinder (Back left)
Then to 10 o'clock. This is to number 3 cylinder (Front left)
All viewed from the rear of van and 'front and rear' description is taken as for front and rear of van.

As you can see from doing this, the leads for cylinders 3 and 4 on the left bank of cylinders cross over.

Start from 1 o'clock on the dizzy. This is to number 2 cylinder (Back right)
Then to 4 o'clock. This is to number 1 cylinder (Front right)
Then to 7 o'clock. This is to number 4 cylinder (Back left)
Then to 10 o'clock. This is to number 3 cylinder (Front left)
All viewed from the rear of van and 'front and rear' description is taken as for front and rear of van.

That's what you'd expect, but when some volks from a local(ish) club came over to lend a hand we (they) found that no. 1 was at tdc at 1'oclock! Which was initially confusing, then I read some threads on here that suggested that that's not totally unusual. So, most of the time, I've been using that setup.

Even if weve got tha wrong, and I've checked it myself, using the pencil (tent peg!) in the cylinder method, the compresion is still an issue

Melvin

Yeah, I know what you mean! It can vary!
Just make sure youre not 180 degrees out. You probably know that an engine has 4 cycles and two of those are at the top dead centre but only one of them is the ignition point, the other is at the end of the exhaust and the beginning of the intake cycle. To check which one you have on number one cylinder, simply take out the spark plug, put into 4th gear and roll van forwards with finger over plug hole. When you feel compression and air pushing past your finger, you are on the compression stroke. When the piston is at the top of this stroke and no further, you will get a spark at that plug. Simply take off distributor cap and check your rotor arm is pointing towards that lead on the distributor cap and that the points are just opening.

I realise you probably know this but just checking!

Hi

Sort of knew, but was a little confused about this, especially after someone who allegedly know's what they're talking about said to me that it made no difference!

That could be very useful shame it's so late, and I'm a wee bit drunk to be doing anything like that now

Got a battery charging and have until 1.30 tomorrow before I have to go to work. Made several forward steps this evening, thank you very much.

melvin

Yeah, don't do it now... Drink and fingers and tight holes don't mix well... (unless its bed time!).
Anyhow... Yeah, it does make a difference otherwise it would be trying to fire just after the exhaust stroke, which isn't usefull!
Could be an explanation for backfires and blowing back up through the carb as the inlet valves are just opening at this point.
Have fun tomorrow anyway, hope you get a bit closer!

Routing for you, Runner!!!

Em
x

Backfiring and banging down the carb is often the sign of tappets not having filled yet.

To check which one you have on number one cylinder, simply take out the spark plug, put into 4th gear and roll van forwards with finger over plug hole

Unfortunately, where we have the bus positioned, having physically shunted it back and forth off the drive, we have about 3 feet of forward movement before we hit a low rockery type thing . So I've tried this while manually turning over the engine, but not sure I can feel anything with my thumb over the plug hole - I thought I felt a gentle pressure but could have been imagining it!
Anyway, got 2 charged batteries so going to try turning the engine over again with the leads in the positions you mentioned.

Backfiring and banging down the carb is often the sign of tappets not having filled yet.

how long do the tappets take to fill?

Thanks

Melvin

One thing that occurs to me;

Having turned over the engine and it doesn't start, the cylinders - 2 of them anyway - will be flooded with petrol.
How long should I be waiting before trying again?
Just thinking that I may have had all the leads in the right place but got got no result due to flooding?

Thanks

Melvin[/b]