Club 80-90 Forums

maxstu wrote: ↑16 Sep 2022, 10:58 Finding heads not a problem. My old ones will go up for sale at some stage l suspect. A decent used and matching in weight DJ piston is another matter.

 

Crankcase journal photos:

No 1 case journal (nearest flywheel):





No 2 case journal. Shells removed.





No 3 case journal:





No 4 case journal. Pulley end. Depth of retaining pin under 2mm:






Your views please. Do any of these journals need reworking?

Regards
Stuart

maxstu wrote: Your views please. Do any of these journal need reworking?

They need cleaning so we can see their condition. Unless a bearing has spun or been shuffling in the saddle, it should be fine.

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Thanks for posting a reply.

Clean as in wipe clean only. Or take a very light-handed 400 emery cloth and oil delicate clean?

Regards
Stuart

Just take the bearings shells out stu and give the case a clean with parts cleaner or something to get them free of crap. Then can see if there's any problems.

Due to the design of the crankshaft only No2 is a split bearing shell, mounted in the casing. The other three fit over the crankshaft itself. But the casing journals mustn't be too damaged or worn. Otherwise bearing shells No 1, 3 and 4 won't seat properly. Will clean all and post back.

New standard crank bearing shells.

Your numbering is back to front. You've put No1 as flywheel end (correct) but your pic is of no4 (pulley end) and so on.
A bit of nylon scourer and some brake cleaner will clean them up.

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Oh bugger! So l have...
Will delete that post and start afresh.
Photos shortly

ajsimmo wrote: ↑17 Sep 2022, 08:25 Your numbering is back to front. You've put No1 as flywheel end (correct) but your pic is of no4 (pulley end) and so on.
A bit of nylon scourer and some brake cleaner will clean them up.

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Now updated to correct order!

maxstu wrote: ↑16 Sep 2022, 21:27 Crankcase journal photos:

No 1 case journal (nearest flywheel):





No 2 case journal. Shells removed.





No 3 case journal:





No 4 case journal. Pulley end. Depth of retaining pin under 2mm:






Your views please. Do any of these journals need reworking?

Regards
Stuart

All looking good?

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ajsimmo wrote: ↑17 Sep 2022, 09:56

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Thank you.

So now l will look at old bearing numbers to check size, standard, 025 etc.

Another check l recall is shining a torch through the web or webbing? If you see light then case is fubar. But l can't visualise procedure. Is it worth doing?

Cases nearly ready to hand to a local engine company for professional cleaning.

Question please.
Is the oil strainer just held by one bolt through sump and then wiggle and pull it out?



Dissy drive removed. Watch out for the spacer at the base. Lot a lube and cleaning needed before it would come out. Heavy carbon deposits initially prevented it's removal




Hydraulic followers numbered and removed. They all seem in very good condition.





Cylinders, sleeves and pins marked with a permanent pen to prevent chances of mixing them up.



Conrods going with cam and crank to the same company for measuring and checking. I will asking them to remove cam gear and dissy drive to fit new bearings.



Question please.
I have a set of early DG rods with non stretch bolts. Can they be used in a DJ rebuild?



Lastly, the oil relief valve removed.





Not lastly!

Question please.
Do l need to remove OBD reader from casing? If so, how?



Regards
Stuart

Under the dissy drive there should be two washers stu.
The oil pickup is just held with one bolt. Might need some persuasion to remove but its best to take out so you can flush it out and also helps with cleaning the oil passage way.
I suppose with the rods you could use them but maybe for reassurance get new rods and have the bolts swapped if you wanted.
That defunct cable/sensor dodad i just cut on mine but left the dodad in.

Stesaw wrote: I suppose with the rods you could use them but maybe for reassurance get new rods and have the bolts swapped if you wanted.

It's fine to use early rods with non-stretch bolts (short thread). Just make sure threads and nuts are perfect, and run smoothly. Obviously have them checked for ovality, straightness, twist, little end wear (and square?), weight matched, balanced...or you could just buy a new set.
If you go new, DON'T SWAP THE BOLTS!!!

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