Club 80-90 Forums

I have sent a PM.

If it is not too much effort, I am grateful for any nuggets of info that is on offer.

Many thanks,
Rob.

slowcoach wrote:Hi robsey-
I used to have a DH engined van, originally from Australia. I've now gone Subaru, but I may well have photos if you need. My memory may be a bit foggy, been a few years, but do ask if you need any help, may be able to help!

I might still have that engine - somewhere! Probably at Shotts in storage at Ian's. I've had a look here and don't have the thermostat housing with the temp2 sender in, so probably don't have the DH crosspipe. I may be going over to Ian's in a couple of weeks. I'll have a dig around then if you still need it.

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Cheers fella,

If I have read Slowcoach's messages correctly, I think the cross-pipe rotted away into a cylindrical doily.
Thanks for the offer though.

All help is gratefully received.

Robsey wrote:Cheers fella,

If I have read Slowcoach's messages correctly, I think the cross-pipe rotted away into a cylindrical doily.
Thanks for the offer though.

All help is gratefully received.

A fair few costs of hammerite was keeping the brazed joints in place if I remember rightly. Interesting to hear you might still have the engine Andrew just burned a bit of oil and the usual head seals leaking was the condition. I sold all the injection parts to someone in the Netherlands for a very 'community spirited' price. I hope they're being used out there somewhere!

As I may be making my own cross-engine pipe, can anyone give some dimensions of the cross engine pipe?

I am looking at the distance from the heater switch on the left end (on carb pipes) to the start of the bend on the right side of the engine, and also a rough distance from the bend down to the heater matrix pipe stub. (diameter reduction for the heater matrix hose)

From previous page... DH pipe without heater switch.



ps - I have put a wanted post up for a pipe, but there are no 'takers' yet... hence why I am looking at making one.

I would post on the t25 club on Facebook and also try Big Red spares for that pipe unless you can bend the ends of a stainless pipe yourself , I always wonder why I don't have a tube bender, but only on those few occasions when I need one ! Good luck and good work. NB the DJ runs very well on lpg with a Blos mixer btw.


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I have found a place on ebay with a good feedback score, that will make rigid aluminium pipes to order, including the lip around the ends.

I have asked him to make me the coupler below, for the left-hand half of the cross engine pipe.



The right hand end should be doable with a rubber / silicone 90° hose rotated downwards by approx 16°,
with a reducer joiner from 25mm to 16mm inserted in the end for the heat exchanger / matrix return pipe.

When doing the plumbing on the buggy engine I used copper pipe and 'yorkshire' soldered joints these have a moulding for the solder and work well as a 'barb' to improve the copper to rubber joint

I have been looking at fitting the early water pump and thermostat to the DJ engine.

It is all very snug in there.
Quick question - is it okay for the exhaust to touch the 'stat casting?

I presume the later exhaust pipework is not bent as tight as the early pipework.



Also - the oil warmer hose is pretty much squished between the 'stat and pump.

I have turned the stub out of the way for now.



Thankfully, there is a bit of casting that can be ground away to clear if necessary - see faint orange marker.



Unless anyone thinks that this is a bad idea...