Club 80-90 Forums

tobydog,

they came from brickwerks as part of the cv set, they said they are all grade 10.9 steel

Had this happen a couple of years back. A  couple of bolts sheared, the rest remained in the cv housing. My fault though, can't blame anyone else!

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Not wanting to create a new post, could somebody explain how the shafts do not twist and brake the rubber gaiters when they rotate, ie when you get wheel spin on one side on gravel for example, baffles me (not difficult) because you have two solid items slotted into the wheel on one end and the diff on the other, how do they keep in sync and not come out of alignment when rotating,

The CV joints and shaft on each of the axles have splines where they connect, which mean they can only rotate together, i.e. there is never any twist applied to the rubber gaiters.

The differential gear deals with the problem of one wheel slipping, or with one wheel turning faster than the other on corners.

[youtube] https://youtu.be/yYAw79386WI[/youtube]

Seems to me that we have a lot of folk around not gifted with the ability to put together a model in their head as to the functional requirements of stuff like differentials and what goes on behind closed doors (inside gaiters for instance). Why would the MITS need that? Having done engineering to death over an extensive and varied field of disciplines including solid modelling I do consider myself to be so gifted.

But the idea that someone can set themselves up as a motor mechanic without a basic understanding of this stuff frightens me to death on behalf of our less mechanically minded members.
 
My view in any case is that the torque should be transferred through the frictional force on the mating faces provided by the tension in the fixings rather than their functionality as dowels. I have found the eight millimetre thread found in so many places on our fine steeds tend to be self locking in all but the most demanding situations – drive shafts being an example.

Mr Bean wrote: ↑14 Aug 2021, 12:08 My view in any case is that the torque should be transferred through the frictional force on the mating faces provided by the tension in the fixings rather than their functionality as dowels.

Not many people understand this - hanging a wall shelf doesn't rely on the strength of the screws but the friction between the wall and shelf. Not hard to understand really to my mind.

Managed to get under the van to get offending drive shaft out.

1. There was some remnants of a gasket between the wheel flange and cv joint. Also on gearbox side. I couldn't see any reference to this in the Haynes or in the Wiki here. Is it required ?
2. What grease do I need to repack cv joints ?

 

This is a pic of wheel flange, look all ok to me thankfully.

Pretty certain l have a spare plate lurking about. Will take some time to find though.
Never seen or used a gasket.

maxstu wrote: ↑15 Aug 2021, 10:28 Pretty certain l have a spare plate lurking about. Will take some time to find though.
Never seen or used a gasket.

Thanks Max, found the third plate in swinging arm thankfully.

I replaced my CV,s last year.
Couldn't get proper kit so my VW specialist ordered for me.
Had to order correct CV joint,s with incorrect boots
(came as kit)
and correct boots separately.
Have ended up with 8 spare sachets of grease.

Unfortunately no id of what grease it is but if you want a couple pm me and I,ll post to you.

gaskets come with some of the cheap cv kits but aren't wanted in our installation (except the 108mm Syncro 16" ones), if the bolts are a little short say with 45mm thread instead of 48mm the gasket can mean that not enough thread in the flange and thus not enough effective torque on the bolts