Club 80-90 Forums

ajsimmo wrote: ↑11 Jul 2020, 21:35 76mm is good news. Oil behind shims is also good news, as it's wet side of the oil seal. If there's dampness outside check for a groove in the sealing face on the flywheel. That can be fixed with a speedisleeve. Then fit a new oil seal.

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 Good to hear that. Was looking at the pushrods today thinking they will need to be replaced, boy the adjustable ones aren't cheap.
Thought about skimping and getting the crushable ones but that involves taking the heads off, I'm a bit concerned that's gonna send me down a rancid rabbit hole of suffering if I did, EG broken studs. But then again if I did that I could check the heads/valve/pistons for wear and tear. If it felt like it had low compression I'd deffo do it, but compression feels solid on all four. I won't know how solid til it's in the van. Plus I don't have a compressor to do a leak down test either, which I guess could show any signs of wear and tear. 

Scat big-mouth are the best value spring loaded pushrod tubes. See here (out of stock ATM as I bought the last two sets ).
https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ ... table.html

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Just want to say I would definitely change the head gaskets now, it's just 1-3 hours of extra work if everything goes as planned. And you will need to do it in the near future anyway.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/engine-gas ... lring.html

Syncronorth wrote:Just want to say I would definitely change the head gaskets now, it's just 1-3 hours of extra work if everything goes as planned. And you will need to do it in the near future anyway.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/engine-gas ... lring.html

I would make the opposite argument, that if there's no sign of weeping or significant deterioration I would leave well alone. It may be fine for the next ten years. The risk of broken studs, and disturbing bottom barrel seals, barrels stuck to heads etc. possibly outweighs the unquantifiable potential benefit (if any) of replacing gaskets.
Btw, @syncronorth: why would they "need to do it in the near future anyway"?

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An unknown engine is just that. Unknown. If you're going for a rebuild, do the lot but fit new rods (cheap insurance, while they are still available and loose bolts are NLA) and be ready to find a worn-out camshaft.
I have a very small quantity of the latter that I have been meaning to prepare for bolt-in use (i.e. pre-timed) but you'll have to change to a type 1 26mm oil pump.

silverbullet wrote:An unknown engine is just that. Unknown. If you're going for a rebuild, do the lot but fit new rods (cheap insurance, while they are still available and loose bolts are NLA) and be ready to find a worn-out camshaft.
I have a very small quantity of the latter that I have been meaning to prepare for bolt-in use (i.e. pre-timed) but you'll have to change to a type 1 26mm oil pump.

I agree, Ian. Don't split it to just do gaskets. If you're going in do the lot, or don't go in.

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ajsimmo wrote: ↑12 Jul 2020, 12:46 Btw, @syncronorth: why would they "need to do it in the near future anyway"?

Maybe I should have just said in the future, but given that the history is unknown it's more likely near future? Won't the risks involved in changing the gaskets just get higher the longer you wait?

Yeah. It might turn into a long term project if I decide to start replacing the cam and such things. But If it's needed after investigation I wont be using it til what needs doing is done.
The only thing I've done on the engine today is getting the old oil seal off the back.. eventually, it was like brittle plastic.

Most of today has been paint prep and sanding.

Something that concerned me though.. which is probably bad news (I've yet to consult my bibles on it), when I was gently prying the oil seal out by resting a bit of wood against the end of the crank I noticed it moved quite a bit forward. I put a big wrench on the pully end and span the engine a bit and it would pull forward and backward, didn't do that with the flywheel in. I know there is meant to be a bit of movement, but not like say 3-5mil. Buggered bearings? Or does the flywheel have any say in the amount it moves? ( I should go read my books )



I've got no problem really stripping the thing down to the core.. which really I probably should do and take my time to do it all right. After all the current engine is OK and this is very much a pet project, I really enjoy wrenching on stuff I'm used to messing around with old briggs engines for tillers and mowers so this is quite a step up. 

Cannot link videos from Imgur for some reason but it's there.

Nothing done today on the engine, been doing other van stuff. Was nice weather so started early this morning with some small bits of filler and sanding work getting ready for paint. Got to the stage where I though parts were ready for paint,  so started doing some painwork no sooner did I finish the bits I wanted to do it started to rain and hasn't stopped since....  . That paints gonna be a friggin mess.

The end float on the crankshaft is set by the flywheel and the shims between it and the bearing behind the oil seal, so don't panic yet re movement

weimarbus wrote: ↑13 Jul 2020, 15:23 The end float on the crankshaft is set by the flywheel and the shims between it and the bearing behind the oil seal, so don't panic yet re movement

Thats good to know , I'm leaving the shims well alone. Just gotta wait for new seal. The retaining ring for the shims took a beating without me realizing when trying to pry the old seal out. So I gotta replace that as well.

Just an update for people who are interested. Away for the next 10 days up t' norf so no works gonna be done. Been thinking and I think I'm going to do a full check and strip of it, I dont want to overlook anything especially when I will be replacing a reliable engine for an unknown one. 

OK so for anyone who is interested. Progress has ground to a halt as funds have to be directed elsewhere. My effort is going into looking for work so I can fund this (and pay the bills), sadly couldn't have come at a worse time.

Anyway enough with that.

While I've had this time I have been looking on various forums/youtube videos etc on such things as dual carbs and aftermarket EFI.
this question is probably directed more towards the engine builders or people who have been there and done it.

I hear dual carbs can be great, IF setup right althought it seems MPG takes a hit.

In terms of EFI there are a few aftermarket options it seems ranging from about £700 up to about 3 grand .
From research I understand Injection as getting better MPG then carbs, better cold start reliability, more BHP and generally smoother running... again all if set up right.

Ideally I'd like to get the most out of the engine while trying to keep the MPG as high as possible (driving style aside). Which is why I am leaning more towards the EFI than Carbs right now. While this is not something I will do right away unless something reasonably priced comes up, I will run it on my 2E3 til I get the money and decide what I'm going to do.
But I'd like some thoughts / opinions on what avenue to take for the long run, especially if it's something you've done.

 

A very quick update,

Engine has been put on a stand and I've drained the oil, no metal chunks so that was a relief. Will be tackling the drain screws in the heads tomorrow to get what liquid is left out of them before pulling said heads. Have blasted all the nuts and such with plusgas so hopefully it will come apart without much of a fight.. fingers crossed anyways. 

Will post some pictures once I've made some progress.

Good luck Stesaw,
Watching with interest, and ready to return mutual numpty rebuild support
Heat on those head nuts is the answer. 30 seconds apiece with a small plumbers' device. And keep heat away from valve springs.
All in itchylinks

Regards
Stuart