Club 80-90 Forums

Question is do I wait a week see how it is or just do the oil change this weekend?

Change the oil sooner rather than later , then you know when it was done and it has the right stuff in it


Ok, water pump for the sink is easy ....
either it’s seized , missing or it’s getting no power , all is equally possible .

As with all fault finding , start one end or the other and only move in one direction, one step at a time .
When it starts working stop looking !

Start at the pump end , see if it’s actually there !
See if it’s seized
See if it has power
Check it has both positive and negitive
Go to the switch , check switch works
Check power at the switch
Check wiring
Check source of power ( fuse)

so I have caused my self a larger problem,

I changed the oil and filter all good. and was running fine

so I changed the leads, plugs and distributor cap and now it won't start as easy and lets out a little pop, starts with a bit of throttle but then won't tick over without my foot on the accelerator, if I take it off after about 5_10 seconds it just goes lumpy then slowly sputters to a stop.

what have i done

You may well have dislodged a vac pipe , go check none are disconnected .

Assuming you didn’t mix the plug leads up into the wrong order ....


Also check you didn’t disconnect the idle cut off solenoid on the carb

plugs and leads definitely in the right order I traced them one by one as I went,

it runs ok with a bit of gas, it just doest start as easy or tick over.

I'm confused about the vac hose, where is it as I have LPG that left sid is messing with me



I didn't change the rotor arm they gave the wrong one.

Little pop. Let’s say for now your timing is ok, you may have dislodged it with the new dizzy cap but unlikely, check it later on. The pop is over fueling and this is linked with the oil light flickering when coming off the gas quickly. Easy fix. Air/Fuel mixture screw in carburettor. You might need a little rev counter whilst your working in the engine bay. Take the feed off the - neg coil. With the ‘idle mixture control screw’ and a little screwdriver, get the revs up as high as possible, then adjust the ‘idle speed adjustment screw’ to get your revs to 900rpm. They are a bit low at the moment.

you sure you bought the right leads ?

you should have the Pin type on that one.

Guessing you bought Din leads instead of pin ???

put the old leads back on and see if it runs ok

Rick

^^ Good Shout, try this first.

(Did it myself!)

old and New



the vac pip on top of the air filter pops off when it does its little thing.

I think to set the idle is a bit on of my comfort zone atm, i don't have rev counter either.

how about the coil lead ?

mine has a din type coil with a pin type lead and kept eating rotor arms.

Whoa ! Don’t go twiddling screws and adjustments , it hasn’t magically cd setting cause you changed the plugs and cap

There are two rotor arms you can use , the bigger one with the spring is a rev limiter one ( a throwback from aircold days) and the smaller more simple one is just that , simpler less to go wrong , but either are ok .( providing the centre hole is correct and it fits on )

If you can’t see anything dislodged , swap the leads and cap back to the old ones which worked fine .
If it still runs rough , it’s something you have knocked or altered in the process .
You won’t have turned any screws or adjusters by accident

agreed ^^

dont fiddle with mixture

on your engine photo your leads dont look right to me.

your taking a #3 lead over to the right side