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My van had this factory connectorised 3-way. One with a plug end (12V feed), one socket end for thermoswitch and one socket end (T’d off) with longer lead to reach solenoid. The thermoswitch is not working the solenoid in this set-up however, the 3-way wiring just gives it 12V. Hopefully picture explains. But other than that, 2,5mm Red feeds carb choke, carb heater & manifold hedgehog.



Runs fine, choke working well, I’ll run it again for a bit longer tomorrow. Keen to see if I still have the 2500rpm dying issue - where all this started!!

937 marked this up:

Thanks for uploading that via tapatalk.

When the forum is ready to accept attachments again I'll upload a better resolution version, unless Mocki manages it before me. HIGHER RESOLUTION VESRIONS LOWER DOWN THE THREAD NOW

If I understand correctly from your post, the wiring diagram above is correct for the early WBX. In summary, three feeds controlled by the thermoswitch and the relay, with the bypass air cutoff valve fed from the coil so live whenever the ignition is on.

Actually it isn’t goi g to matter where the choke feed comes from, the coolant temp will be the same at the thermoswitch as it is at the choke , so both will switch off together .
Mine has a constant feed , from the coil , but mine is not standard either , as it’s a DJ with a Carb , and therefore temp2 switch was swapped for a carb thermoswitch and the loom made up

That's in line with how I've just wired mine up and it works now, the heaters etc are powered from cold and then after 8 minutes or so the thermoswitch cuts the power to them.
My choke was permanently powered before and the van hesitates to the point it almost stalls so I think the carb has been set up with the choke being on at all times !

Also can I just confirm, people refer to the bypass airflap, are you talking about the idle cut off on the carb or is there another valve somewhere ?

Ads1987 wrote:
Also can I just confirm, people refer to the bypass airflap, are you talking about the idle cut off on the carb or is there another valve somewhere ?

Bypass airflap sounds like a fuel injection term.......... idle cut off valve is the one that is generally recognised round here https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=168808

I agree, whoever wired your carb up before did make it permanent choke, so it should run a lot better and be more economical now.

Strange how the early WBX carb wiring was shrouded in such mystery, but it's actually pretty straightforward, I'm glad you are both sorted now

Doesn't run we'll just yet but I think it's because they adjusted it all up to work with the choke operating, so now the choke isn't on all the time it hesitates, just need to get it warm and have a fiddle with it all I spose!

The choke wouldn’t have been on all the time because of the wiring , it would have gone off when the coolant reached temp , the biametal spring would react to the coolant temp

Compensating errors

Yep, get her warm, choke off, then adjust the mixture and idle so she runs well.

You should also recheck the ignition timing.

Ran mine up to ‘Slough (Newbury) Swap Meet’ this morning and back (30 odd miles) and it ran perfectly.

Hope that’s all sorted


911 912 356

Four rear engined motors in the car park then, 18 cylinders in total

ok I had wondered, so the 12v powered part will be overridden by the spring, it will turn itself off even thought it's getting 12 v?

Early WBX carb wiring, the second one is easier to see, the first with just a text link is higher resolution, but it has to be clicked on




Second image

937carrera wrote:Four rear engined motors in the car park then, 18 cylinders in total

Nearly...
911 6 cylinders
912 4 cylinders
356 4 cylinders

DoubleOSeven wrote:
Nearly...
911 6 cylinders
912 4 cylinders
356 4 cylinders

911 6 cylinders
912 4 cylinders
356 4 cylinders
T25 4 cylinders