Club 80-90 Forums

Really? What will that do?

Worked for me in the past

You adjust the effective length of the tool using the screw.

You need it so the leverage from the handle compresses the spring to the point where it goes "over centre" and will lock in place next to the arm. Similar to using mole grips.

The whack with a hammer may be necessary to break a "seal" between valve and seat after a long period of non use and some corrosion / bonding, but I have never needed to do that.

Hi 937carrera,

I was using (trying) the tool in the correct way. It was quite intuitive even though I haven’t used one before.
Still, after a couple of goes I went and looked at a few videos on Youtube just to make sure.
It’s just not strong enough to compress the spring, which is why I was wondering how much force is required.
I tried the method of clamping first then adjusting the screw to see if that would budge it. Even though the handle was over centre and locked against the stop on the handle it just sprung open.
It looks like the tool isn’t up to the job.

I always whack the spring before trying to release, I have bent my compressor tool before when I didn't do it.
Use a socket so that you are giving equal force all around and only on the spring cap and not the valve.

my tool springs open, I made a C shaped clip to hold the handle to the frame.

It was worse after I bent the handle trying to force a stuck valve collet, have a look and see if yours is now bent.

is yours like mine?

Mine is similar to yours and it’s not bent. I only tried it twice and decided something’s not right.
I now understand what hitting the collar will do. It has always moved with the valve. Now I need it to move against the stem, so it may be stuck.
I’ll try that and see how it goes.

Cheers.

Very similar to mine, except mine is nearly 40 years old, so perhaps not quite as much "value engineering" in the design.

My only other comment is don't be too greedy on how much you wish to compress the spring. You only need to be able to remove the colletts and you get the most leverage as you approach the over centre part of the movement. Better to adjust the screw so that you can get the lever fully home to the frame, and then adjust it so that the spring compresses.

Aircooled may be different dims but mine was hitting the rocker cover mating surround to the valves, I took the end screw out from frame to the valve cup ( black bit lhs) , drilled a new hole and that made the end fit better over the surround.

Andyroo wrote:Mine is similar to yours and it’s not bent.

Cheers.

may have been the spring cup I bent not the handle.

Mine has seen action on WBX, Aircooled and a fair few other vehicles, it does get tight but I have not had to modify mine. There is a more expensive "heavy duty" compressor at Machine Mart which is more adjustable as well.

Yeah, I’ve been looking at that.
It’s another £11 though.
Might be worth it in the long run.

In case anyone is interested...
Went to Machine Mart and exchanged the valve spring compressor for the heavy duty one.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht459- ... ompressor/

VAT free day as well so it only cost an extra £5. Worked straight away.
Valves are out.
I lost trust in the other type after it sprung open on me.
This style takes a bit longer, but I'm not bothered by that.
Thanks again for your help everyone.
I'll be back again with my next problem.

On the back of this...

Valve stem oil seals?
For a CU engine. Where can I get them?
I thought they’d be a common item, but it seems not.

Andyroo wrote:On the back of this...

Valve stem oil seals?
For a CU engine. Where can I get them?
I thought they’d be a common item, but it seems not.

WBX doesn't have them I doubt air cooled do either.

Ah, so what seals the valves then?


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