Club 80-90 Forums

engine is same dimensionally just keep they origional cooling ststem

Well thats a positive

This has moved on quite a bit today, just catching up.

My original suspicion was that a valve spring had gone weak, piston hits valve head and bends valve stem preventing it retracting. Light contact means that's all the damage there is in the cylinder, harder contact and you are into broken valve, chipped piston and other more serious issues.

I didn't understand the kebab stick test, I must be missing something

I'll be interested to know how the cheapo endoscope works out, if that's what you do. I had heard that they weren't that good for engine work and resolution was poor. That may have changed now

I tried using one down an inlet manifold - couldn't see a thing as the light was totally absorbed by the blackness inside.

I put the blunt end of an unused kebab wooden stick into the barrel with suspect valve. I can feel piston head go over TDC. So its not hitting valve. I now believe issue may be flywheel or clutch related

maxstu wrote:I put the blunt end of an unused kebab wooden stick into the barrel with suspect valve. I can feel piston head go over TDC. So its not hitting valve. I now believe issue may be flywheel or clutch related

did you do this with all pistons?

Oldiebut goodie wrote:I tried using one down an inlet manifold - couldn't see a thing as the light was totally absorbed by the blackness inside.

not surprised in a oil burner

itchyfeet wrote:

maxstu wrote:I put the blunt end of an unused kebab wooden stick into the barrel with suspect valve. I can feel piston head go over TDC. So its not hitting valve. I now believe issue may be flywheel or clutch related

did you do this with all pistons?

Yes. All pistons move freely. And no ill sounding scrape or noises. When it locks the sound and movement is very central and very solid sounding. I dont want to force it but have have turned engine away from lock a little and tried again. It definately central in engine.
l can nearly get 360. Crank pulley wheel mark turns just under one revolution either way. Strange how it started at about 290 degrees rotation with rods in and now nearly completes a full 360 revolution before locking. Might put rods back in and test again. But likely lm running round in circles and not being constructive enough.

Oldiebut goodie wrote:I tried using one down an inlet manifold - couldn't see a thing as the light was totally absorbed by the blackness inside.

Ordered yesterday. Might be useful in other areas. Such as how many tools l have accidentally dropped behind camper cooker and fridge.

might be a con rod bolt broken and catching or as said clutch/ gearbox
if you drop the engine or just the gearbox you can rule that out.
if the engine still won't turn you have to.strip it down .

endoscope pic down pushrod tube to check tappet

endoscope tappet by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Cheers Itchy. Yes engine out. Ill put soare in for now and play with suspect engine later.

is this a new Van?

Yes. bought as none runner. Mine old is going in for panel resto with Rusty Kamper near Margate. So this new van is seeing me through summer camping.

Was expecting engine removal. Just asking knowledgeable club 80 90 opinions' before pulling engine. Hope spare engine works too?

picrures?
where did the spare engine come from?