Club 80-90 Forums

itchyfeet wrote:

what2do wrote:Have wired it up to the battery. Showing just over 14 V with the engine running on the drive, drops to a tad over 12 V when engine is off. I'll take it for a spin later and see what the gauge reads at high'ish speeds because this is when the diode has been illuminating recently.

Yep working but as you say now monitor it.
I have to say I'm impressed

Impressed with what? My ability to get a job on the van done within the same calendar month?

You got it...and it was your least favourite...electrics

So, if I Rev the engine hard at standstill or whilst driving the diode illuminates, not totally bright or constant but illuminated sufficiently to be seen and the volts drop from 14 to 13. As soon as I back of the throttle the diode goes out. Haven't yet been on a drive today where I can hold a constant high rpm to see what effect that has.

Still none the wiser.

It's faulty
Had one like this before.
can borrow my spare from Monday and get it fixed or by a second hand one
Mick at NVVW may well have one

itchyfeet wrote:It's faulty
Had one like this before.
can borrow my spare from Monday and get it fixed or by a second hand one
Mick at NVVW may well have one

Mines a Bosch, safe to say it's worth trying to get mine refurbished rather than buying a lesser brand?

Diode pack deep inside the alternator, as I mentioned earlier. Tis possible to change it yourself but you do need a good vice.

CovKid wrote:Diode pack deep inside the alternator, as I mentioned earlier. Tis possible to change it yourself but you do need a good vice.

Thanks Ralph, I'd be very interested in having a go myself, do you have ant pointers on disassembly please? To undo the large nut on the front do I have to grip the pulley? It looks a bit flimsy to be gripping in a vice especially as I envisage the nut being 'man tight'.

This guy is great: https://www.youtube.com/user/WestronicsIrl/videos" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

No one should fear starter motors and alternators. WAY too many get exchanged (at great cost) when often the repair is easier than you think I always rebuild my own.

Not the same alternator but principles the same. Diode pack/rectifier replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tvXocfXyic" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In my experience, rectifier faults tend out outnumber regulator faults. All the bearings are available and some even sell complete rebuild kits on ebay.

Another excuse not to fit the engine ....

itchyfeet wrote:Another excuse not to fit the engine ....

Nope. Just catching up with work and I'll soon be good to go, I could do without a heatwave whilst working on the van though.

CovKid wrote:Not the same alternator but principles the same. Diode pack/rectifier replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tvXocfXyic" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In my experience, rectifier faults tend out outnumber regulator faults. All the bearings are available and some even sell complete rebuild kits on ebay.

Thanks for the links, if only our rectifiers were external, the job would be a lot easier...

Tell me about it

Time for an update. Did my first journey that was more than just local trips today, from Salisbury to Dorset (approx 70 minutes travel time). I soon realised that the charging light illuminates whist revving hard either stationary or whilst accelerating. So once out of town and onto good country roads where my speed was between 55 - 65 mph the diode would be constantly illuminated. Slow down for a junction/roundabout and it goes out. Now that I have the gauge fitted I can see that when the diode is lit, the voltmeter drops to under 13; when it goes out the voltmeter returns to 14 v.

There's a simple test that I've seen on YouTube which shows how to test the rectifier, I'll go and do the test shortly and report back.

Ran a test on the rectifier and it's as should be when the meter reads 0L, the other way around gives me a reading of 1620 (units Unknown, meter set to 'diode'). From what I gather this reading is far too high but I'd like to clarify that, does anybody know where to find the acceptable range for rectifiers?

Thanks.