Club 80-90 Forums

Which is why graphite is used to lubricate the locks. If you use WD40 / Oil then dirt mixes with it making a paste which stops the wafers from moving freely.

About to do this myself to hopefully make my sliding and boot locks work with the key my ign, and both front doors all work with.

Is it best to remove a front door lock so I can read the numbers or just follow this guide and try various waffers until flush?

I never managed to work out the correlation of lock number to wafers to use.

There are only 4 different sizes of wafer so it doesn't take long to get it correct through process of elimination. All very quick once you've got the barrel out.

mbcamper wrote:I never managed to work out the correlation of lock number to wafers to use.

There are only 4 different sizes of wafer so it doesn't take long to get it correct through process of elimination. All very quick once you've got the barrel out.

Ah OK that kind of makes the job easier.

Did you, or anyone here do the boot lock? Is it a similar process?

Thanks

I've not done the boot lock, but I gather it is the same process.

Don't play with the ignition key lock as you might regret it. I'm told that is a horrible task and far more complex.

Luckily my ignition and front 2 doors are matched so will be just doing sliding and boot. Locks. Will let you know how I fair

My grub screw was seized solid so had to drill it out to remove the barrel, does anyone know where I can source another grub screw or the dimensions so I can tap and screw in another?

The barrel itself was so corroded that even after a good clean the tumblers would not move freely enough to push out when key removed so ordered new.