Club 80-90 Forums

I'm not quite sure what the fear is in fitting a windscreen DIY with a 'proper' seal. You can always have a helper outside to give light pressure to screen so it doesn't actually fall out while you pull the string but takes me all of ten minutes to fit one on my own. Last one I did was 1664's one as he had a JK one and it leaked. They go in very easily. Its a lot easier than you think. Its only hard when you use a Just Kampers seal as they're such a terrible fit.

Everything is easy once you have seen how it was done, I could probably do one myself now.
This was an insurance job, at 90 quid excess I could not have done it myself cheaper.

itchyfeet wrote:Everything is easy once you have seen how it was done, I could probably do one myself now.
This was an insurance job, at 90 quid excess I could not have done it myself cheaper.

Put the details somewhere safe as I'll be needing one doing at some time in the near future.

Does anybody know what is this sealant that is used by windscreen installers?
I asked but it was in an unmarked gun and I was told 'oil based it will eventually dry out'

So what is it?

I'm interested because I have a non factory fit window in the van which I'd like to remove and refit with a new seal and sealant.

itchyfeet wrote:Does anybody know what is this sealant that is used by windscreen installers?
I asked but it was in an unmarked gun and I was told 'oil based it will eventually dry out'

So what is it?

I'm interested because I have a non factory fit window in the van which I'd like to remove and refit with a new seal and sealant.

http://www.arbo.co.uk/arbo-sealants/arbomast-autograde/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I had a bit of a leak with a plastic rear window (gen seal, new hatch). So I used a roll of butyl sealing cord about 5mm diameter, lifting the edge of the seal as I went round and shoved it in. Then just went round with finger pressure squashing the cord flat between the seal and hatch. Worked a treat. If needed subsequently, the butyl can simply be cleaned off the paintwork with turps or panel wipe. If a curing sealant was used, this job would be harder.

I use the same stuff to fix door membranes in place. The butyl is permanently tacky, so you can just peel the plastic away for maintence access, and replace when done.

The VW part number for a 5m roll is AKL 450 005 05. Other suppliers may be available.

Thanks chaps, what we now need is for Brickwerks to stock this stuff

I think the rust from leaking windows has been the death of many a T25, particularly aftermarket windows.

In the meantime

https://www.sealantsdirect.co.uk/arboma ... 380ml.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

SamsBus2012 wrote:In the meantime

https://www.sealantsdirect.co.uk/arboma ... 380ml.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks but I will never use 25 tubes

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARBOMAST-Auto ... Swl8NVdZmX" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I cut the old rubber in half before I threw it away, interesting to see the section