Club 80-90 Forums

ajsimmo wrote:It will probably run ok with the dizzy you have but the timing must be set as I've described. Has this been checked?

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My dad has a timing light so I will check this one evening

Cap it as it's doing nothing anyway. The vac pipes are on wrong but can't be corrected without the dual vac dizzy so it makes that loose one redundant. To see the correct connections look at the picture link posted earlier by Darren (but his earlier description was wrong).

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Ok. So cap that off for now and check to see if third carb is sucking at idle. Then go from there I suppose. Thanks for all your help.

Yeah, have to apologise, got the connections I described wrong way round, I've just looked at mine again - left carb does indeed provide the advance signal (which should collapse at idle, otherwise it overpowers the retard signal - this is what was happening with mine, it was getting vacuum all the time, and stopping the retard from working as it should), and the retard signal comes from the link pipe in the idle circuit. I think everything else I said stands, though, although I'm sure I'll be corrected if not...problem was I spent so much time reading stuff (a lot of which was wrong) that I've clearly taken it on board and then spewed it out without looking back at mine. I've edited the post to reflect this, so if someone else sees it in future then they'll read the right info, not the wrong stuff.

It looks to me like you have a Just Kampers "mexico" dizzy fitted, which I tried briefly (and then it failed!), I got a secondhand correct DVDA dizzy on eBay, and then rebuilt it (it was a bit seized, but most importantly the diaphragm was fine), and then fitting that and setting it up led me in the right direction.

The part you're searching for is 071 905 205 - that's the right dizzy with DVDA and hall sensor in it to run the electronic ignition.

I had mine set up properly, timing-wise with the SVDA dizzy in there, and the difference in emissions/stink at idle with no other changes is massive, but you should get largely the same performance other than that - it's solely and emissions thing, AFAIK.

Pummer67 wrote:Ok. So cap that off for now and check to see if third carb is sucking at idle. Then go from there I suppose. Thanks for all your help.

Those vac pipes are also causing the inlet air pre heat flap to be open all the time which will cause warm running problems.

Completely remove the vac pipe in your hand and the T piece. Then connect pipe 1 to the left stub of the thermostat on the air filter (the bit you you have just removed the vac pipes from) and pipe 2 to the right stub.

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm going to have a little play this evening once I get home. Everyone's advice is brilliant.
Mark

I have pulled the l shaped hose off of left carb and doesn't seem to be sucking. Will it suck from cold or does engine need to be warm? Is it quite noticeable? There is a hissing noise coming from left carb area is that normal or is that a air leak. I've now joined the small vac lines as suggested by removing the t piece.

Mark

Also where the green bit of hose pipe is on previous pick is that normally a solid piece of tube right across or is that just missing a piece of rubber tube that is not a hose pipe.

Mark

I think it is sucking very slightly. If I put my cheek to it u can just about feel it. But certainly no strength to it.

Pummer67 wrote:I have pulled the l shaped hose off of left carb and doesn't seem to be sucking. Will it suck from cold or does engine need to be warm? Is it quite noticeable?

If you're talking about the hose that feeds the idle circuit (it goes into the top of the left hand carb), then yes, it should be sucking all the time - if I put my thumb over mine it'll stall - after all, it's the idle circuit. Looks like ajsimmo's thought that the idle solenoid isn't firing could be right. You need to check that it's getting a 12v supply when the ignition is on (the same feed does multiple devices on the carbs and also the +12v feed for the coil) - on mine a number of the connectors were a bit slack, so I (gently!) tightened them up with a squeeze from some pliers. But it's also possible that the solenoid is dead, so a bit of fault finding on that is needed. If it has failed, it's totally possible that someone has tried to compensate for this by changing the throttle stop screws, and that could create other issues....

Pummer67 wrote:There is a hissing noise coming from left carb area is that normal or is that a air leak. I've now joined the small vac lines as suggested by removing the t piece. Mark

Hard to say without hearing it, but I don't think there should be one. Remember there's also the vac feed for the servo, which is a common problem on the elbow/T piece which are there - mine needed clipping in place (came off once, left me with a van that wasn't happy and wouldn't idle).

Pummer67 wrote:Also where the green bit of hose pipe is on previous pick is that normally a solid piece of tube right across or is that just missing a piece of rubber tube that is not a hose pipe.

That's a bit of black rubber pipe on mine, connecting the outlet on the idle circuit on the left-hand carb to the rigid pipe. Material won't matter, other than long-term life.

Checking it all over and re-setting things from scratch will take a couple of hours, but be worth it, IMO.

Yea I have already replaced the rubber t piece as I had a 10mm brass plumbing t on mine all squashed together which failed and ended up with ridiculous brakes. I'm st work tonight so will hopefully have day off tommorow to test idle solenoid voltages.

Ok. I have 12v coming into the carb from the black wire feed from coil. Which one is the idle solenoid valve? And how do I test it. I presume it gets it's earth from the threads so is that why it was suggested someone may have taped the threads.
This is a bit frustrating as it starts so easy and runs quite well for about an hour so it's like I'm looking for a needle in a haystack.

Mark

I've just tested with an ohm meter and the one on the top of the carb which is rectangular looking is reading infinity. The other connections all have resistance on them.

The rectangular one is the idle enricher, so that's only supposed to be active early on. BUT if yours is not working it's possible that it'll be enriching the idle all the time?

As for the idle valve, sounds like it's working, but you could remove it and put 12V on it to check it does actually operate (or remove the connection with the ignition turned on, and put it back on and see if you hear it click?). Mine was also wrapped with tape, so I fixed that bodge up...

Does your thermostat work?